Yep, that corner is SLICK! I did warn about it in the topo description.."very slick 5.7 with poor pro"...
It's really hard to rate low-angle very slick terrain. On lead it can feel super sketchy yet you might be able to walk up it in tennis shoes. We recently did a new route on Lamb Dome where you get to a super low-angle shallow water chute that would be 5.0 if it weren't so dang slick. On lead you get sketched out, on top-rope you can close your eyes and squeak your way up anywhere you want...
On another note, we rated Pippin two stars, not sure how it got to 4 stars on the website.
I can't emphasize how slick the 5.7 corner really is. It's glasslike for two feet on either side of the moss filled crack. What's worse, it's a runout after the first 1/3 of the crack (as the photo below clearly shows). Bad idea to give this pitch to the less skilled leader of the team, as the 5.7 rating is inconsistent with how delicate it needs to be climbed to avoid peeling off and stacking on the ledges below. My partner climbed out right on top rope...where there's still some texture on the face. Considering the fact that I couldn't protect the top 2/3 of the crack, it wouldn't have been a bad idea to go that way, had I known. Hats off to the FA party as I'm sure the rock was just as slick in '71!
I climbed this in 2009. A fun, low angle climb, not really 5.9, as you can scramble around the opening move. Good adventure for a new 5.8 leader. Upper book is very slick- you can see why from the pic I took last week.
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