Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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If 5.7 is your limit, I would recommend getting someone else to lead that pitch.
I hung slings on those plates, and they stayed on and everything, even held up a carabiner, but counting on that stuff as lead protection is the climbing equivalent of 'you can't get pregnant in a hot tub'.
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Rich the Brit
Trad climber
San Ramon, CA
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The desciption in the 1st supertopo guide of the runout 3rd pitch can scare a lot of people off with talk of "equivialnet to 5.10 gym" and "easier for people over 5ft 10in".
The new guide correctly points out that it is possible to tie off some of the plates using the newish super-skinny slings that are now available.
I used single "shoulder" skinny slings (like the type used in a trippled "Yosemite" quick draw), and I found at least 4 tie offs over the 65 ft of climbing that is after the traverse to the bolt.
No fancy knots - just a figure of 8 tie off, sinched up to provide the maiximum hold on the patina. I clipped in a draw, but I also weigthed the sling with a cam or two for extra security.
Don't expect a bomber tie-off with the sling secured around the entire patina. These are weighted/directional tie-offs, but I reckon they would take a fall, and none of mine flicked off as I climbed.
As the guide states, being taller helps, but with some psycological pro in place, now even the vertically challenged can go for it!
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Just got this beta from Larry Arthur on a direct start to Hobbit Book:
Thought you'd get a kick outa knowin' that my friend Mark Engstrom (deceased) and I put up a "direct start" pitch to The Hobbit Book (p 110) back in 1974 or 75. It starts below and right of the big corner and avoids all the hiking involved with following Charlie and Gordon's original approach. Here's the beta:
Shadow the wall below and right of Oz / Gram Traverse until goin gets steep (ocassional 3rd class chimney and boulder hopping). Rope up when you can easily work up and left on a series of ledges and back right via ramps and low angle cracks (easy 5th class). Smear past and left of an old 1/4" bolt (now not necessary with small cams) 5.8 and over an overlap tending left to a small tree on a ledge. Sling this and step left, traversing along a thin crack ledge to it's end (pro at your feet). Make face moves straight up to blocky ledge at base of Hobbit Book proper.
I reclimbed this summer before last. I really wasn't looking forward to the runout to the old rusty trusty and only spotted it when I was up and left of it some 20 ft. The Complete Hobbit or the Direct Start (as we've called it) makes a fun and easy climb a little longer and a little more fun!
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
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The route follows a striking left-facing dihedral.Photo: Marshall Minobe
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
