Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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coool then. the B/Y was always a little burly for me maybe ill go and add ten or so per pitch it wil be bitchin!!!
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Funny to see complaints about relatively minor retrobolting (12 bolts instead of 9) of what was one of the most tightly protected routes of that era. Not to mention that the retrobolting in question was on easier terrain for the route, was done 20 years ago (between '86 and '92), and was probably done by the FA party itself.
It's hard to think of any test piece of Tuolumne climbing that was retrobolted, and TONS of the old hard scary routes now sport recently replaced bolts (last 10 years or so). The hard scary stuff is still there, still WAY runout, and loads of those routes have great bolts - get on it!!
This might also be a good place to point out that seven years ago Alan Nelson - who had the FA on tons of free solos in Tuolumne (including 3 free solo routes on the right side of Fairview) - INVITED people to retrobolt his routes, even offering to pay for the bolts himself! No one took him up on it - not exactly a raging problem with retrobolting in Tuolumne.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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its been retro bolted with anchors at half pitch...so your only doing darth vadar the revenge part was up another 75'....the run outs above WERE the character of that route sad now....
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Riley Wyna
Trad climber
A crack near you
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Really nice climb. Loved the varied crack climbing and the funky reach to the jug that starts this route.
Lead it with the left hand variation, but also top roped it a few times and climbed the right hand variation. The later is a very asctetic and graceful few moves.
A very cool and enjoyable wall of climbing.
riley
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maestro8
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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We TRed the first pitch of this climb after doing Golfer's Route. The rap from Golfer's to Darth's anchors was a bit tricky; make sure to have a daisy "at the ready" to clip into the anchor as soon as you get there.
A fun hand traverse gets you from the starting crack to the roof... the multitude of knobs above the roof make it much easier than it looks. Features above the roof aren't as huge as those on Golfer's, but there are more than enough of 'em.
This is such a fun route! I would've liked to run a few laps on it, but got shut down by approaching thunder and lightning. Never a good sign!
With the tight bolt spacing, it seems to be well protected, especially by Tuolumne standards. I didn't notice much polish, and with a good selection of knobs to use, didn't worry about it.
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MikeL
climber
SANTA CLARA, CA
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Nice climb, but it seems that it's been climbed many times, and the little features are getting polished above the bulge. On the other hand, Sh#t Hooks (10b) immediately to the right seems much less climbed and hence more definite on the face.
ml
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
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Darth Vader's Revenge is number 2.Photo: Greg Barnes
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
