Andrew F
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
|
 |
Fun route with some powerful moves between good holds.
Very well protected except the aforementioned 5.9 slab at the top which was basically just 1 move. We stopped and belayed at the great ledge right below this section. This meant we had a 40' pitch to the top, which was a hassle, but it also means the belayer has a much better chance of keeping you off the ledge if you blow the (insecure for me) friction move. A red/orange offset Master cam was okay in the pin scar and there's a bomber cam at your feet.
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
|
|
a #2 tricam protects the start of that last pitch really well.
I love this climb. First climbed it before the guidebook and it was called 5.9, then it was 10a in the first reid/falk, then 10b in a later version then 10c! All I did was get older, weaker and fatter but I was getting better.
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
I think you can protect last 5.9 slab move by hybrid yellow/red alien. I did not have it , but playing with yellow alien in this pin scar make me feel that this pice will protect well this move
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
luca
Trad climber
milano italy
|
|
nice route with great pro, but pay attention at the 5.9 slab on the last pitch: it's just a move or two, but it's tricky to pro (and not a great pro) and if you fall you'll hit a ledge
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
LOWERme
Trad climber
Santa Fe N.M.
|
|
I did this route with Miguel Carmona in 86. I was just below the finger crack crux chalking and pondering, pondering, chalking, then chalking and pondering some more,when J. Bacher suddenly appeared from below, ropeless, and politely asked if he could climb through!
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
euphoria
Trad climber
Santa Fe N.M.
|
|
Since Supertopo is now indicating where difficult moves can be aided, I'll tell my story about this climb. I did it in 2002, with my friend Ryan leading it. The sun was going down as we got to the 10.c crux, and I was tired, getting cold, and getting nervous about finishing the route. Anyway, after flailing on the pin scars for some time, I stuck in a little Alien as high as I could reach (I'm 6'), yarded on it, and was past the crux no problem. Because of this, I would definitely say that leaders could take up a follower who climbs below 10.c, just make sure you leave them a little cam or two for that pitch.
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
Just got back having done this route today (8/22/04) with Steve and Gary. Great route. Except for the very top where one 5.9 slab move gets you up to pro, the route protects great with nuts and cams.
The SuperTopo was accurate. The fixed angle above the 10c section is broken and should be removed (no need for it anyway). We found hybrid-Aliens nice in some of the pin scars. Depending on how high you go, running together the first two pitches may be less then 200'.
Quite nice.
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
Colt45
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
We did the route in two pitches. The first pitch is a bit weird for the grade. Its crux is protected by two old pitons tied off with ancient, bleached webbing.
The second pitch has awesome, secure, super-well-protected fingercrack cruxes. However it finishes with some 5.9 slab climbing that I found to be a bit terrifying. You're climbing directly off a ledge, with the last real pro placed while standing on the ledge. It is possible to get a couple of sketchy alien placements in this section (where the topo says "pin scar--not pro"), but it's 10-15 feet until you can get real pro once again.
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
|
|
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
|
|
|
|
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
|
|
|
|
|
|
THe splitter crack system up Lembert Dome creates the Direct Northwest Face.Photo: Chris McNamara
|
