Tectonomagmatic, Lamb Dome 5.10b

 
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (1.0)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
2 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 0%  (0)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 100%  (2)
Greg Barnes

climber
Jul 28, 2010 - 05:04pm
 
Tectonomagmatic now has a second pitch (done last summer). Instead of belaying at the first anchor, climb up and left past the giant detached block (too big to pull off) to a bolted anchor on a ledge. From there climb past 9 or 10 bolts to a bolted anchor. Sustained 5.9/10a, and a 60m rope is needed (180' pitch). From the top anchor, about 30' of slab (past detached flakes) hits the rope-up spot for On The Lamb.

Also, there is a new (last summer) 2-pitch 5.9 left of Tectonomagmatic, called I Don't Know. It is fairly runout, with slab cruxes. Starting up about 40' left of Tectonomagmatic with a poorly protected boulder problem start (which can be avoided by starting Tectonomagmatic and going left on the ledge), then going up intermittent cracks (thin nuts to 2") to bolted face. There are 4 bolts on each pitch - both pitches about 150' (no other pro on second pitch which is 5.8 R). If you want to continue to On The Lamb, traverse left about 30' from the top anchor and you join the 4th class approach to On The Lamb, about 80' below the ledge where you start the latter route.

As far as the rating of Tectonomagmatic, the report is many think it is 5.10c.
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dave

climber
Earth
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   Jul 28, 2010 - 04:17pm
I would give this an R rating, as the 2nd. to last bolt is run, and its pure friction in a semi-polished groove, doesn't make much sense, since it could have easily been stanced drilled to eliminate that danger. A fall would likely be 30' and launched over the edge. 1 star too not 3. it doesn't suck, just un-necessarily run and crusty rock.
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 08:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


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Lamb Dome - Tectonomagmatic 5.10b - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Greg Barnes
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