I climbed Hoodwink back in the Fall. It's a great route with tons of variety. I didn't think it was very runout except the last pitch above the crux but it's only 5.7 at the most. I even found a pretty nice tcu placement in the roof to back up the piton. I would highly recommend the climb.
This was a great route. a little bit of everything: crack, thin face, wild boulder problem roof. I felt the roof felt pretty stout for 5.10a. this is the one place in Tuolumne where being in good gym climbing shape comes in handy. I was surprised how there is still some short but serious bushwhacking on the descent. Definitely want hiking/approach shoes for the descent.
Very fun route, and don't let the "R" rating scare you away. It's only moderately run-out (PG by Tuolomne standards).
Instead, you should be scared of the piton protecting the crux. It looks pretty solid, but if it pops you might break your back. The good thing is that the piton is RIGHT AT the crux, meaning you don't climb very far above it. I think I remember it being at my waist as I was pulling onto the ledge (with two bomber bolts).
Think of it as a boulder problem with a real nasty landing. You stand on a big ledge, pull 3-4 moves, then mantle onto another big ledge.
The rest of the route is fun, also.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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