This is a fantastic line! One of the better TM routes. Highly recommend.
We tried to find the mystery 5.7 Steep start, which I think goes up/left from where it shows in the guide. I went up/right then into a steep/overhung/loose hand crack directly above the alcove. If this variation were cleaned up, it could have potential.
excellant line excellant climb. We actually intended to climb "blown away" but when we saw the line we proptly changed our plans. Ended up doing the variation "vlani" refers to, unintentionaly because I got tunnel vision and diddn't notice the ledge untill I had climbed about 30ft past it. The variation was great though and added a bit of exposure (I think). The loose block on the .10a pitch was a bit spooky and we found the biggest challenge of the climb was avoiding it. We managed to climb around it and continued on to the terrific liebacks above.
Hey vlani, the way I do it with a single rope is to climb past the roof, place a couple/3 pieces, then downclimb and remove all the pro before the roof. I've also just put double-length slings on the couple pieces before turning the roof, then flip the rope so it runs over the top of the roof instead of into the crack. Still get rope drag, but not too bad.
Double ropes would be a lot easier...glad that you had them!
we did it at 07/30, after climbing Bombs 1rst pitch. It was windy, but afternoon sun warms up the climb a bit.
For the first pitch - I do not know how people do it without doubles. We used one rope up to the roof corner, with a piece in the roof crack and long sling, and other rope was used starting after the leader turned over the roof left edge. The higher the leader went the less was the rope drug.
For the scond pitch, after going down and up, the uppermost ledge in the base of the crack/corner is the best for the anchor with solid pto. It is at about the same level as rep loop, some 30-50 ft left.
The third pitch variation is to go all the way up along the corner, without treversing to the ledge 50ft up. This is nice steep corner/rump with excellent pro, probably better that original way, and takes pitch count down by 1. 60m rope just makes it to the point where the left corner and original climb merges in, about 20ft below the 5.10 crux. There is better belay option with good ledge about 20ft lower in the right corner.
Crux is essentially one move off good stance, extended with nice 5.9 laybacks on good edge, but off-balance pro.
The last 4th class pitch is a pile of large loose blocks but easy
Just did this today (9/7/03) with Gary Carpenter starting with the variation from the forest. It is a great climb, though a little cool and windy (as advertised). Some comments on the SuperTopo:
1) The start using the variation is a little confusing (at least to me). 3rd class up and you find yourself on an obvious ledge below more difficult ground, below and a little bit left of the large, left facing corner indicated on the topo. The "5.7R steep" is right in front of you! a series of horizontal cracks and little ledges gets you up and into the corner.
2) The belay at the top of P1 on the variation may be a little bit more comfortable if you move it up over the "loose" flakes onto a blocky ledge above the belay indicated and just below the entry point for the main book.
3) We followed a team who did the 5.9R start variation off of the "West Crack" ledge, the follower fell on the 5.10c step down... right where the topo indicates. Forwarned is forarmed!
4) While the alternate belay station shown above the second pitch is not as comfortable as the plush ledge indicated, using the alternative will reduce the pitch count by one, and is probably more comfortable then the belay station indicated on the topo (just below the crux). Using the alternative belay station lets you push through the consecutive 5.9 lb, 5.10a face, 5.9 lb sections to the nice ledge above. There is a great rest below the 5.10a crux with excellent pro.
5) The topo says to be careful on the last pitch because of loose blocks. The entire exit crack/gully is VERY LOOSE, with some rather large blocks which can roll on you (one big guy did on me!).
Great climb, which should be thought of as a 5.9 layback with a couple of 5.10a face moves with "crack assist". Not nearly as strenuous as "Crescent Arch". However, you should be solid on laybacks as there are some awkward stances while getting a look at where the pro is going. In general, the route pros very well and the gear selection indicated is a good match.
There are loose blocks and flakes on the climb, test before committing to them!
The "Route photos" linked from this page are of "Crescent Arch", not "Cooke Book"...
Cooke Book, as seen from the base, curves around the north side of Daff Dome.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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