I just did the route on 3/38. I agree w/ everyone, it's great. But I think the rap from the final rap station is more than 30 feet, more like 80. And there were not nuts there as back up (except the ones I left myself) - just 2 slings around a dead stump that moves. Definitely not replaced, and ASCA can't replace them - BLM orders (I asked ASCA this week). Can we start a petition to the BLM?
Great route: fun climbing and good protection (thanks to good crack and retrobolting).
One have to pay attention while repelling: from top of pitch 5 the ropes look like will reached the Fiddler's anchor on the lip of the roof, so it is easy to pass the correct rap station above it. Luckily one can stop on Sour-Mash's belay 4 and do slightly diagonal repel to Fidler's roof belay station. Rapping from top of pitches 1, 2 or 3 might be hard, so it is probably easier to go to top of pitch 4 if you have to get off early.
Finally the "RAP station" one has to use in the middle of pitch one if you rap from Fidler (unless you have very long ropes) is a dead stump, a nut and some bleached webbing. The repel is only 20-30 ft but quite scary.
great route...one of the better ones on the wall. ignore the ST rack recommendation for this one- its beyond overkill. a single set of nuts and cams will be fine. the only spot on the climb for a #3 camalot is on the first pitch, and there are other options...a #2 is sufficient.
A great climb without a lot of traffic. Swain's guide mentioned setting up belay with large Friends. I found a great belay stance, but it didn't take large Friends. I used a #1 Cam, a green alien, and something else small. No large Friends. Just lugged them the whole time. A little soft for the grade. More like 5.9.
Excellent! Much better than prince of darkness or dream of wild turkeys. The climbing is varied, interesting, and well protected - and the exposure is good.
Sour Mash is an overlooked awesome varied climb.
Photo: Greg Barnes
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