if any of you have ever heard the rumor of someone running into a rattle snake just above the crux on this route......no rumor that was me in 1976. Scared the sh#t out of me. I felt sorry for my follower (cody paulson) who had to clean the damm thing knowing full well what I had just encountered!
The start moves are extremely hard for the grade and the fall is bad. We were able to place micro-nuts 8' off the ground to lessen the blow in case of fall.
We did not find any top anchors and climbed out right under the roof to a 2-bolt rap/belay station. Leaving the second a fairly intense traverse.
Sweet lie-back/stem for 20-25' the rest is ok.
A bolt at the start would make this climb more appealing, since 20' of good climbing is hardly worth a broken ankle.
I got to the top of this route and the only anchors I found were some good rap rings about 15ft to the west above a sport climb. A bit offline to set up the TR but they worked. The supertopo version I have shows the anchors slightly to the left of the route - topo error?, chopping?, user error?
Either way an awesome route. The bottom is terrifying until you learn to finesse it. It's not that high but it just feels there's no way you're gonna land on your feet.
A view from the Hogsback.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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