Blue Cab, Lover's Leap, Main Wall 5.9


Lake Tahoe, California, USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
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Social climber
Oakland, CA
Jun 21, 2007 - 12:26pm
Thanks for the beta Chris. I don't know anyone who has done this route, except for buchanan. I think that route to the right is Up From The Skies, didn't know it had an anchor half way up. Could you rap to that anchor from the Blue Cab anchor, and thus descend with one rope and two raps?
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Jun 20, 2007 - 09:04pm
Blue Cab is that 5.9 just right of Corrugation Corner (actually just right of the 5.11 sport route), and the pro recommendation is simply:
cams 2 ea .5-2"
However, the route is definitely 5.9 R without at least a single set of RPs - preferably, a double set of micro nuts. Even with micro nuts it might deserve an R.
Also, key beta for the rap: it's 115' if you stay left, but 125' if you swing right.
And also, there is a 2-bolt anchor in the middle of the face about 80' up (one cold shut, one regular Metolius hanger). This appears to be a retrobolt of the 5.9 R face route with the single 1/4" bolt about 25' up, 15' right of Blue Cab.
Some beta for the first pitch of North Face - the one-old-bolt, one-old-pin anchor is way left and only 6 feet from the anchor for Blue Cab (in other words, the Blue Cab anchor is so close that it's basically just a replacement of the original anchor, but in a better location for modern bolts - on the wall above instead of on the horizontal ledge). North Face first pitch is excellent but has super-thin (breakable thin) dikes in spots. A 5.7 leader would want at least triples in 1.5-2" cams, my recommended rack might be three 1.5" cams, four 2" cams, one 3" cam, one 3.5" cam (nuts, single cams below 1.5").
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Lover's Leap, Main Wall - Blue Cab 5.9 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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