Surrealistic Pillar Direct, Lover's Leap, Lower Buttress 5.10b


Lake Tahoe, California, USA

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D Fred

Trad climber
san francisco, ca
Oct 7, 2012 - 04:39am
did this one yesterday for the first time and i wish that the damn 5.9 felt easier to me than it did... perfect relaxing hands up until a humbling little wide section that just happens to be conveniently located exactly in the same spot where the dikes for stemming disappear. wider than fists and no dikes to step on for a lieback. again, with a little groveling and trembling, i got through it, but damn, i wish that 5.9 wide stuff felt easier. thankfully it only lasts about 6 feet and then it's back to perfect hands and dikes for feet

i ended up taking the first traverse over to under the roof on the right and it was just a great little sequence w jugs located at just the right spots... almost like the holds were engineered just to keep it at a manageable 5.10... and i wish that last 10 feet of splitter hands went for another 100 feet.

a great climb overall and after about 3-4 laps through the wide section, i think i finally have a sequence that'll let me lead it with less embarrassment next time


p.s. i wish i had read this thread before doing it... didn't even notice that one of the bolts were loose, sloppy on my part, i'll check for it next time

p.p.s. i didn't try the second pitch... how is it?

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jun 11, 2012 - 12:59pm
One of the two anchor bolts is a little loose. Use caution!

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Sep 22, 2003 - 12:06am
I really enjoyed this little pitch. This is a fun warmup lead on a very high quality crack. It felt like a steal at 5.10b, perhaps because the crux is very short. The hardest part for me were some of the strange moves in middle 5.9 section.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:04am
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here

Tahoe Joe

Novice climber
Mill Valley, CA
Nov 4, 2002 - 03:08pm
So, is this a forum now, too?

Since when does "route beta" mean posting the obvious gear placements?

Just want to keep others from any sort of onsight?

If you think it's such a cruiser at 10c or "concencus local 10b", why does someone feel obligated to post fairly obvious gear beta? i.e. why don't people just stick to the otherwise inobvious beta (loose rock, route-finding complexity, etc.) and leave some of the adventure for the next guy?
Dave Buchanan

Gym climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
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   Nov 2, 2002 - 05:51pm

I apologize for the mis-understanding.
I was jokingly suggesting and implying that anyone
who "wanted to break into the grade" should
try a different 10c, since this route would no
longer provide such glory.
The statement was not aimed at anyone in particular,
and certainly not DS, who I happen to know personally.

As far as being a "hardman" is concerned, anyone who
visits rec.climbing knows my handle there is
*Hardman Knott*, with emphasis on Knott...

Head up the hill a ways to Black Opal or
Hemmoroids in flight if you want to challenge]
yourself on 10c!

Dave Buchanan


Novice climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
Nov 2, 2002 - 12:05pm
What gives Dave? Who is spraying about this route? I was talkking about leading it as my first 5.10 eight or ten years ago. No one is saying it's a hard climb.
Dave Buchanan

Gym climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
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   Nov 1, 2002 - 08:53pm

Here's the story of how the 10c roof variation became
a local-consensus 10b...
(straight up is 10a)

Jay Sells was climbing the route a few years ago
and was turning the roof, when a large block dislodged.
Prior to this, you had to reach from the undercling
(red Alien/orange Metolious) all the way up to a not-so-
great hand jam several feet above.
Now there is a huge double-hand bucket/jug right above
the undercling which you can use to easily get your feet
up in order to execute what is now a one-move-wonder
10b crux.
There is a slot behind the bucket that goes all the
way through, so it is possible to simply drop a long
sling down through the hole to girth-hitch for pro.
(Say, if someone wanted to lead the thing all-passive pro)
Or a hex could be used as a chock; cliping the sling

Regardless of which of the two versions you are climbing,
there is a bomber #11 stopper placement 3 or 4 inches
behind the funky old pin which protects the traverse.

If you wanted to spray about leading a 10c, try Roofer
Madness or Tombstone Terror instead.

Dave Buchanan

David S.

Intermediate climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
May 29, 2002 - 09:58am
It was my first as well. I still love this pitch. It's got a bit of everything pack in to it. Lie back, stemming, jamming, edges, slopers, roof!

Chris shows two variations on his topo. I like a third which I think involves what radical was describing. Climb the 5.9 crack and then traverse right and head through the roof directly. I haven't tried climbing the face to reach the roof which is what Chris describes as 10.c or 10.d. variation. Anyway you do it is a blast.

Intermediate climber
Marin Hot Tub Country
May 29, 2002 - 02:40am
THis was my first 5.10 trad lead and still brings a smile to my face when I think about it.....inspiring line and amamzing geology. I think if you traverse below the roof and climb the crack it goes at 10c, although I always found the guide book confusing on this matter. At any rate it is an easy 10c tick and protects well. The crack eases off after you pull the roof. This would be a great climb to break into this grade on...
Lover's Leap, Lower Buttress - Surrealistic Pillar Direct 5.10b - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
A view from Hogsback.
Photo: Chris McNamara
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.