What did you guys do to my route? You took a perfectly good death route that climbed the entire face in two pitches, retrobolted it into a sport climb, erased it's history and replaced it with yet another hideous vision of an outdoor gym climb. For the record, the original route climbed the whole pillar in two pitches with three protection bolts and was called Beer Can Alley 5.10c X. F.A. Bob Pinckney Rick Sumner 1981.
I red pointed this last August. Really a good route and stays cool and shady most of the day. Getting to the first bolt requires some serious concentration, but the landing is okay. Very well protected and the last moves to the anchor are very interesting. The anchor sort of set my teeth on edge...three open 3/8" cold shuts that should see a replacement function in my humble opinion.
Photo: Chris McNamara
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.