Agreed the route is no longer runout. I used a .5 but .3-.4 would have been better for between bolts 1 and 2. Crux is the bulge, traverse right, straight up dike face moves. Decent climb. Extendable draws useful as the traverse is significant.
Good face climbing, not really that runout. 7 bolts, topo only shows 2 or 3. only need a couple small cams for a small roof. Only makes you think because there are dikes that apparently snapped off all over the route. Oh, and it's like 90-100 feet not 70.
Good route, modestly protected. A Green BD .75 is bomber under the rooflet, then steep moves up and left lead to a bolt 12 feet up. rnA good Variation is to move out and right under the roof, then up. Only TR'd this variation but harder Than the original route 5.10a?
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.