Took the "direct finish" going straight up over the roof via the handcrack/flared seam (after the 5.7 section where you'd normally head right to do the 5.6 topout). It involved a handjam mantle with a heel hook (right foot) to reach the jug at the top. It was one or two physical moves, but committing and probably 5.9+/5.10- with ankle-breaking potential on lead because it does not take pro very high in the seam there's a ledge directly below. It's fun, but be careful.
Sup, I thought Red's Delight protected reasonably well. Did it in 2 pitches last weekend. 2nd pitch was quite the stretcher though. You got good pro anywhere you'd need it particulary and the rest is juggy. I'd say corrugation corner (still easy) seems more "run out" for me.
I had just finished Red's Delight (5.9 and runout) prior to this climb and after the scary nature of Red's Delight, this seemed fairly easy. Rated 5.7 here and 5.8 in other books, I have to agree with the 5.7. Nothing seemed that difficult. The final roof looks it will be tough, but if you look around to the right side of the roof, you will find it very easy. I'm not sure where the crux was, it all seemed fairly straight forward.
Much of the first 200 feet of this climb ascends what is like a small corner. A series of cracks runs up the left side of the corner, so you lay back on that crack and put your right foot against the other face and work your way up. (I would have rated the climb higher if there were a little more variety.) You can also get some stems in on the left side too. I went almost 60 meters (new rope, maybe 5-6 feet left) on the first pitch and belayed right under the huge roof. It fit my blue camalot (3") and two gold camalots (2") for the belay (I saved these bigger cams). It worked great for me because I could sit in the shade from the roof while I belayed my partner up. I didn't need a 4.5" cam (and don't have one) for the "awkward" roof. I wasn't worried about falling there because I clipped into one of my gold camalots in the roof. The next roof was too tough for me going directly up the crack, so I went right onto the face, and then I saw a huge crack that made it pretty easy. If you want to avoid these roofs, then it's only 5 or 6 feet left to get to the center route. It looked like an easy traverse.
A view from the Highway 50.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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