July
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Took the "direct finish" going straight up over the roof via the handcrack/flared seam (after the 5.7 section where you'd normally head right to do the 5.6 topout). It involved a handjam mantle with a heel hook (right foot) to reach the jug at the top. It was one or two physical moves, but committing and probably 5.9+/5.10- with ankle-breaking potential on lead because it does not take pro very high in the seam there's a ledge directly below. It's fun, but be careful.
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Simmeron
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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A great little route. I always enjoy pulling the 5.6 roof at the very end. EvDawg, how'd you end up breaking your ankle? Hope your healed and back on the rock.
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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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this was a fun route!
broke my ankle/leg on it.
but it was a really cool route!
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tb00957
Trad climber
san jose, ca
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I led the first pitch, my partner did the second. We brought 2 of each camalot up to 3". Good for setting anchor. It would be nice to have a 4" to protect the crux on the second pitch though.
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HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
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Sup, I thought Red's Delight protected reasonably well. Did it in 2 pitches last weekend. 2nd pitch was quite the stretcher though. You got good pro anywhere you'd need it particulary and the rest is juggy. I'd say corrugation corner (still easy) seems more "run out" for me.
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johnhl94563
Trad climber
Orinda
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I had just finished Red's Delight (5.9 and runout) prior to this climb and after the scary nature of Red's Delight, this seemed fairly easy. Rated 5.7 here and 5.8 in other books, I have to agree with the 5.7. Nothing seemed that difficult. The final roof looks it will be tough, but if you look around to the right side of the roof, you will find it very easy. I'm not sure where the crux was, it all seemed fairly straight forward.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
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ttoshi
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Much of the first 200 feet of this climb ascends what is like a small corner. A series of cracks runs up the left side of the corner, so you lay back on that crack and put your right foot against the other face and work your way up. (I would have rated the climb higher if there were a little more variety.) You can also get some stems in on the left side too. I went almost 60 meters (new rope, maybe 5-6 feet left) on the first pitch and belayed right under the huge roof. It fit my blue camalot (3") and two gold camalots (2") for the belay (I saved these bigger cams). It worked great for me because I could sit in the shade from the roof while I belayed my partner up. I didn't need a 4.5" cam (and don't have one) for the "awkward" roof. I wasn't worried about falling there because I clipped into one of my gold camalots in the roof. The next roof was too tough for me going directly up the crack, so I went right onto the face, and then I saw a huge crack that made it pretty easy. If you want to avoid these roofs, then it's only 5 or 6 feet left to get to the center route. It looked like an easy traverse.
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A view from the Highway 50.Photo: Chris McNamara
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