Fishhook Arete, Mt. Russell 5.9

 
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High Sierra, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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SuperTopo Rating:   
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 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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Rating Distribution
2 Total Ratings
5 star: 50%  (1)
4 star: 50%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 12, 2011 - 04:29pm
 
More history on the FA of this route on this thread...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=754454&msg=780866#msg780866
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Deb

Trad climber
Santa Clarita, Ca.
Jun 12, 2011 - 03:01pm
 
What descent do you all suggest if camping at Iceberg? I've heard it's a bit tricky. If we did camp at Upper Boyscout, how long is the approach from there to the base of the route?
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monolith

climber
SF bay area
Feb 27, 2011 - 10:47am
 
East Ridge descent would be my choice to get back to Upper Boy Scout lake. Spectacular views. Two classics in one day!
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Nickers

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 27, 2011 - 02:42am
 
whats the best descent route if your staying at upper Boy Scout Lake?
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clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
Aug 6, 2008 - 02:53pm
 
interesting that none of the splitter crack routes have been supertopoed yet on this formation. I will have to recomend Startrekkin III 5.10. First pitch follows mithral to a ledge. Second (crux) breaks left while bearhugging two seams (bring smallest aliens) then goes over a roof. THIRD IS THE MONEY PITCH splitter hands goes to red rocks like golden knobs and a belay stance. Fourth pitch is easy ow to the top of the wall. Follow a ridge with boludery moves here and again to the summit and hike down the sweeeeeet east ridge.
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hamid

Trad climber
Berkeley, California
May 23, 2007 - 03:21pm
 
Hi there,

Anybody been on this route lately? Is the route approachable this early in the season? How about the descent?

thanks.

-Hamid (womad99@yahoo.com)
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Floridaputz

Trad climber
Oakland Park Florida
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   Jul 10, 2006 - 11:37am
Just got back from doing the Fishook Arete on July 5th. This is my favorite Sierra Alpine climb so far. I thought the 1st pitch was 5.9. The rock was very clean, the exposure awesome. The descent was mild compared to the mountaineers route on Whitney. The last 5.9 pitch was the highlight of the climb. Look down for a thrill !
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Dr. Martin

climber
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   Jul 13, 2004 - 05:07pm
This route is a steller alpine outing--great position, solid rock (for an alpine route), and an awesome summit. I would not say it is 5.9, however, no move felt more difficult than 5.8 (even if it was very exposed, edge of the arete climbing). Expect the crux to come in the first three pitches. The two pitches after the notch are the most quality of the climb, just head straight up the headwall. Fast parties who feel confident on 5.8 at altitude may break the climb into several sections, simuling the first 4-500 feet, belay in the notch, pitch out the next two pitches until after the chimmney, then keep simuling the 5.5 to the summit. Enjoy!
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Bob Jones

Trad climber
san luis obispo
Apr 20, 2004 - 10:59pm
 
any one been up in the area? how is the snow level? can you still get to it with snow at the base? how bout the decent?
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crotch

climber
san luis obispo
Aug 27, 2003 - 06:59pm
 
On the second or third pitch where ST says to go left of the arete, I've gone both ways and find that staying on the arete leads to more elegant climbing than heading down into the corners below. Either way goes, but I do think that staying on the arete puts you in some spectacular positions and is no harder than dropping down and left.

Cheers
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Mt. Russell - Fishhook Arete 5.9 - High Sierra, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The route as seen from the summit of Whitney.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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