Institute of Better Bouldering-DirtbagDad Division
Jul 17, 2013 - 02:17am
I agree with Riley. The first part is kind of a hike but it starts to get interesting when you cross over an airy ramp. I think I had a belay here (it was many moons ago) and for me the crux move with the first move up out of that ramp into the crystal pitch. Then it's pretty easy, but dang, like others have said, pretty loose and very cool. I recall being very ginger with the rope and where it ran for fear of knocking something sizeable off.
Edit: Just remembered I had some photos from the climb:
The airy ramp:
Airy ramp on Crystal Crag
A couple of shots of the cool Crystal pitch.
Nice light on the crystal pitch
More crystal coolness.
Hard to have a bad day with this guy!
At the top with a fine fellow and character, 10b4me.
Did the route a couple weekends ago. I admit I kinda (really) messed up with route finding and did what the above photo describes as the north face variation. I thought it was super loose and would just reccomend staying on the north arete proper.
I wish the guidebook I read (not supertopo) had gone something like this:
Climb the chimney and continue left. Stay left. Stay on the dang arete (which by the way is left). Continue up to the crystal pitch and climb it. Traverse along the ridge-top to the south summit (if you're directionally challenged it's the one furthest from the point where you topped out).
FYI found a fixed pin in the middle of the crystal pitch.
So stoked for this route! It will be my first alpine lead this saturday. Any tips for pro? Or anything sketchy to look out for?
Crystal Crag Overview
Photo: Luke Lydiard
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