How is the bolted finish "the logical way"? More like the lazy, unadventurous, p*ss-out way.
It may be consistent with the difficulty of the rest of the climb, but it is inconsistent with the CHARACTER of the climb. And it ain't THAT MUCH easier than the rest of the climb... I've always thought it was a serious sandbag at 5.7, and one of the more unique pitches in the desert.
... But the bolted finish is bolted, it's face climbing, it's neither the historical nor the logical finish to the summit route, it's not the natural 'path of least resistance,' it's a sport pitch to the summit of a beautiful Castle Valley tower, and, oh yeah, it's a bolted pitch on a desert tower.
Fine Jade is a gift from nature, and concluding this wonderful natural line by clipping a line of bolts "just to keep the grade more consistent" would be missing out on a great adventuresome conclusion (and no gimme 5.7 either) to what to me is the perfect desert line.
We found the fisty burl-fest of the first pitch to be much harder than the boulder-problem 'cruxes' up higher. Eat your wheaties.
The bolted direct finish seemed to make a lot more sense than the original line, though since I only did the one I can't say which is better. Kinda weird to be sport climbing on the top of a tower, though.
I think a 'tower' is supposed to be taller than it is wide, which makes the Rectory a 'butte'. Though it looks pretty towerlike head-on.
The Rectory from Castleton Tower.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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