I did this with a good group of friends last spring. I dislocated my knee on the first pitch, which I'm sure made the offwidths a bit harder. I agree that this route isn't nearly as good as advertised. The only thing that makes it great is the tower itself and the ledges. I've been told that the N. Chim. is WAY better. We also seemed to bring all the wrong gear.
A direct start via 'Stardust Cowboy' offers a good bit more difficulty (.11 tight hands/green jrs) while skipping the giant 5.5 staircase. There's other options as well (Black Sun, Arrowhead) along the same wall, but all roads lead to the big O.Dub. Classic in an old-school kind of way, like the Steck-Salathe.
Some folks I saw made the mistake of hauling on this route (to sleep on the summit)- if you're gonna do that, you'd be way better off on the North Face cracks. I bet they slept pretty well, eventually.
I climbed this route in '96. Somewhat disappointed as I was told it would be better. the last pitch was really fun because of the exposure. Next time I'll try the North Chimney.
Sep 26, 2002 - 04:57pm
this route is ok, but the north chimney on castleton and honeymoon chimney on the priest are both much better at a similar level of difficulty. the third pitch offwidth isn't to bad - the second pitch felt much harder to me. had perfect weather on this route in january, with no one else around.
Sep 24, 2002 - 02:28pm
We did the Kor-Ingalls on 9/13 and had great weather & temps. A huge low pressure system had passed through Utah the previous week (f-ing up our Utah climbing roadtrip)and finally the weather broke with great temps and blue overhead. Looks like cooler fall weather may be here. Much thanks goes out the group who built/maintains the approach trail to the base of the tower.
A view from the approach.
Photo: Dougald MacDonald
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