Walking a Thin Line, Mickey's Beach 5.10c

 
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Bay Area, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Aug 3, 2011 - 11:55am
 
used to be a favorite pre warm up warm up for me when at mickeys for many years. not as fun any more, it got old for me and it is a bit scary on the runout. ive seen at least two folks take the whipper on the run to the anchors - they were ok. you can also clip the last bolt on pelican but the stance isnt as good as the anchor clip so its sort of a toss up. imagine eric brand (big wall/mountain climber) putting it up on lead! we used to lead it on his rusty (1/4 / 5/16 inch?) spinners back in the day. its a lot less scary now with the new stainless ring/u-bolts. and yes pelican is a great bouldery face climb and worth doing as well. if some of you have never been to egg rock it also has a great 5.10 route "closed caption" that is a safer sport lead.
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Jebus H Bomz

climber
Old West Crackramento
Aug 1, 2011 - 06:41pm
 
Good deal, Jewedlaw! I always found Walkin A thin Line to be an "invigorating" lead. It always felt as if some oily tar had been lathered on some of the holds and that the run to the anchor would be an ill-advised place to fall. Once you've established the TR, try toproping Pelicans to the right for some burly technical climbing.
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jewedlaw

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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   Aug 1, 2011 - 04:45pm
Slick and tricky footwork at the start, but at the first bolt, then reach two enormous rails, and begin scary thin section. Last bolt is quite a ways below anchors, and this section is more fun on top rope! Yikes! You can do it though! Trust those feet.....
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Mickey's Beach - Walking a Thin Line 5.10c - Bay Area, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris Summit
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