Homeworld, Parkline Slab 5.10c |
||
Yosemite Valley, California USA | ||
|
Avg time to climb route: 1 hour
Approach time: 15 minutes Descent time: 30 minutes Number of pitches: 1 Height of route: 750' Overview
Pro: .33-4.5 one each, 12 QDs Can be done with one 60m rope. One of the warmest long routes in the Valley, making it a great choice in winter. Can be climbed two hours after a rainstorm. P1: 80, 4 bolts, 10c. Above second crack is a horizontal crack that takes a 2.5 pro. Then two more bolts, with a 10c crux between bolt 3 and 4, gets very near vertical to a bolt anchor. P2: 70, easy 5.6 crack (fingers), really mellow bolt anchor by a pine tree on a really large ledge that veers right. P3: 90, traverse right via 3rd class ledges with a 5.7 distinct cross as the line jogs, 15 feet of funky moves, finger-sized pro, then back to walking to big giant ledge with more pine trees up right to a two-bolt anchor. P4: 90, 7 bolts, go past one bolt to a tight hands crack for three body lengths and then it veers up and left on 5.9 really long and amazing face climbing. Three-bolt anchor. P4 variation: 5.8 right-hand variation gets wet; a juggy face climb/knobs with bomber finger crack pro. Going the left way is more fun and more classy. P5: 90, 3 bolts, classic Valley face to left- facing corner. This ear that is placed on the wall looks like the Bootflake. It gets wide, 2-4. From here, OW or pimp juggy layback. Grab the damn thing and go. Otherwise you need a 6-7 piece to protect it safely. Its less physical to layback this section. P6: 60, 6 bolts. Belay on top of ear. Three bolts worth of sustained 10c (classy) to a horizontal dyke, easier ground, traverse right, clip another bolt on the dyke and then head straight up the anchor. P7: 60, 3 bolts. Climb 5.10 past the bolt, then you get into purple and blue TCU and then 10c via laybacks and underclings, 1-2 Camalots, then make your way right past three bolts to the anchor. P8: 100, 7 bolts. Fully bolted pitch, very sustained. A couple bolts heading left via the weakness with serious 5.10, then jog right, climbing through the headwall, and up to a two-bolt anchor. P9: 100, 3 bolts. Clip two bolts of 5.5 to the top. Should by all rights become a popular Valley route. It has a friendlier feel. A great route for the 10c climber full value. You can go up and down with a single 60m. The route on the left you cannot do with one rope; you must complete and finish Homeworld to head down.
Climber Beta on Homeworld
Find other routes like
Homeworld
Sign In or Join SuperTopo (it's FREE!) to read the complete route history, the recommended strategy for climbing this route, and useful tips should you need to retreat. Approach Sign In or Join SuperTopo (it's FREE!) to read this route's approach information.
Descent Sign In or Join SuperTopo (it's FREE!) to read this route's descent information.
Everything You Need to Know About
Yosemite Valley
Search the internet for beta on
Homeworld
|
 |
 Photo: Chris Van Leuven
Other Routes on Parkline Slab
|
