Avg time to climb route: 30 minutes
Approach time: 20 minutes
Descent time: 30 minutes
Number of pitches: 3
Height of route: 270'
OverviewRack: 14QD’s/one rope for climb and rappel P1: 5.10a five stars, 80’, 9 bolts. Straightforward, slippery slab start transitions into circuitous climbing, capped with a reachy roof section just before the anchors.
P2: 5.11c, Two stars, 80’, 9 bolts. Trend up and right from anchor on top of P1 into overhanging flare. This pitch can be dirty and often wet. A distinct lack of grips from bolts 5-8 make this pitch a cerebral puzzler. However it’s all (or practically all) there. Finish by trending left to a two-bolt belay at a stance. Do not follow the line of bolts going left, these terminate at bolt 9 due to a huge rockfall that dropped this section of the route.
P3: One star (two options). The preferred route is to the right, via Shock the Monkey (FA: Genesis Onzo, Sean Jones). This follows the 5.10c, one star, 100’, 12 bolts, very safe. Right off the belay clip the directional, then traverse right into gully and past a tree (it’s called Jungle Boogie for a reason). Calcite-covered terrain with a finish that gets the leader to head straight up (crux is at bolt 10) or roll over the arête left into easier – albeit less satisfying – terrain.
The less preferred route is straight up: 5.8R,75 feet, four bolts. Runout face climbing.
Looking east from the top of Shock the Monkey, you’ll see a big ledge beneath the huge white cave. The left two routes climbing out the cave are Superstition (B), 5.12c, 75’, 9 bolts to a flake and A Trick of the Tail (C), 5.12b, 75’, 9 bolts.
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