Jungle Boogie, Mecca 5.11c/d


Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 30 minutes
Approach time: 20 minutes
Descent time: 30 minutes
Number of pitches: 3
Height of route: 270'
Rack: 14QDs/one rope for climb and rappel P1: 5.10a five stars, 80, 9 bolts. Straightforward, slippery slab start transitions into circuitous climbing, capped with a reachy roof section just before the anchors.
P2: 5.11c, Two stars, 80, 9 bolts. Trend up and right from anchor on top of P1 into overhanging flare. This pitch can be dirty and often wet. A distinct lack of grips from bolts 5-8 make this pitch a cerebral puzzler. However its all (or practically all) there. Finish by trending left to a two-bolt belay at a stance. Do not follow the line of bolts going left, these terminate at bolt 9 due to a huge rockfall that dropped this section of the route.
P3: One star (two options). The preferred route is to the right, via Shock the Monkey (FA: Genesis Onzo, Sean Jones). This follows the 5.10c, one star, 100, 12 bolts, very safe. Right off the belay clip the directional, then traverse right into gully and past a tree (its called Jungle Boogie for a reason). Calcite-covered terrain with a finish that gets the leader to head straight up (crux is at bolt 10) or roll over the arête left into easier albeit less satisfying terrain.
The less preferred route is straight up: 5.8R,75 feet, four bolts. Runout face climbing.
Looking east from the top of Shock the Monkey, youll see a big ledge beneath the huge white cave. The left two routes climbing out the cave are Superstition (B), 5.12c, 75, 9 bolts to a flake and A Trick of the Tail (C), 5.12b, 75, 9 bolts.
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Yosemite Free Climbs
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270, 3 pitches FA: Sean Jones and Brian Ketron
Everything You Need to Know About Yosemite Valley
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff
Mecca - Jungle Boogie 5.11c/d - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
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Photo: Chris McNamara
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