Regular Route, Lower Cathedral Spire 5.9


Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 2.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 3 hours
Approach time: 1-2 hours
Descent time: 1 hour
Number of pitches: 5
Height of route: 500'
This is a must-do for any historical trophy collector. Only months after climbing Higher Spire, the same team of Eichorn, Leonard and Robinson returned to Lower Spire and started up the Southeast Face. The route turned out to be less sustained than the Higher Spire but more risky due to one large feature on the third pitch: a menacing, thin flake detached ten inches from the wall.

Today, even with the security of modern equipment, the detached flake looks suicidal and all climbers avoid the original direct line with a variation to the right. This variation starts with a 5.9 boulder problem or an A0 move off a bolt. Next, the climbing follows steep, loose, and poorly protected 5.7 flakes that will scare even the solid 5.9 leader. The rest of the route does not have any magnificent pitches. However, the summit and overall experience make this a worthy outing.
Photos - View all 4 photos of Regular Route as: Thumbnails | Slideshow
Climber Beta on Regular Route
  A total of (5) submissions of route beta on Regular Route
Which SuperTopo guidebooks include a topo for Regular Route?

Yosemite Free Climbs
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Everything You Need to Know About Yosemite Valley
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: June 9, 2011
Lower Cathedral Spire - Regular Route 5.9 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Climber on the first pitch with the route above.
Photo: Greg Barnes
Other Routes on Lower Cathedral Spire
Lower Cathedral Spire - South by Southwest 5.11a - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
South by Southwest, 5.11a
Lower Cathedral Spire
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View from near the base.
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