Cold Fusion, Glacier Point Apron 5.10c

   
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 30 minutes
Approach time: 5 minutes
Descent time: 30 minutes
Number of pitches: 3
Height of route:
Overview
Cold Fusion balances edges and smears up three pitches. Lead it or easily set up a top rope after climbing Monday Morning Slab, Right. The route features crisp edges, glacier polish and mantles. P1: ascend a tips 5.7 crack (no pro) for 15 feet. Go right, then up to first bolt. Dance in and out of a black and green, left-leaning dihedral. The crux of the route comes after the first bolt (first bolt is high and a crash pad is not a bad idea)130 feet. P2 is a 5.8 dirty crack with one bolt protecting the 5.9 slab for 90 feet total – this is not quality and can be avoided by rapping into the route from above. P3 is five bolts with crux after second bolt (10b). Next is a sustained 5.9 for 90 feet. It’s recommended to add a directional to TR this route – use pro .4-1.5” – and backup off Cold Fusion’s rap anchors. Ninety feet down to the first set of anchors, 180 feet to second set of anchors. First and last pitches are fully equipped, non-runout climbing, by Valley standards.
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130’, 8 bolts P1, 90’, trad P2, 90’, 5 bolts P3 FA: Mark Spencer, 4/80
Everything You Need to Know About Yosemite Valley
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff
Glacier Point Apron - Cold Fusion 5.10c - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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