The Surprise, Five Open Books 5.10a

Yosemite Valley, California USA

Currently 3.0/5

Avg time to climb route: 2-3 hours

Approach time: 20 minutes

Descent time: 20-30 minutes

Number of pitches: 4

Height of route: 350'

Overview

This is a dirty 5.8, a good 5.10a, or an awesome 5.10c depending on which pitches you start or finish on. We consider the 5.10a variation the standard route because the 5.8 original route is much less classic and more runout. Unlike most Five Open Books routes that ascend big corners, The Surprise mostly climbs splitter cracks on a clean face. This route is usually uncrowded. It's tricky but possible to pull through most of the crux sections on gear.

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Climber Beta on The Surprise

A total of (19) submissions of route beta on The Surprise

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Five Open Books History

Climbers have always appreciated short approaches, so it’s not surprising that the area around Lower Yosemite Fall attracted attention in the 1960s. Only minutes from Camp 4 lay a wealth of possible routes on the various tiers of cliffs. One trouble: these cliffs were not exactly composed of pristine granite. Trees, bushes, munge, loose dark rock—you name it, these cliffs had it. In a valley renowned for its sparkling white granite, this place was an aberration. But let’s not forget that approach! - Steve Roper

FA: Wally Reed and Jim Posten, 9/63.

Strategy

From lieback cracks and steep faces to offwidths... [full history for SuperTopo members only!]

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Approach

Descent

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