Pencil Necked Geek, West Cottage Dome 5.11a R


Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 2-3 hours
Approach time: 20-30 minutes
Descent time: 20-30 minutes
Number of pitches: 3
Height of route: 160'
FA: Alan Roberts, Alan Bartlett, Dan McMillan, Tom Prentice, July 1980.

A tricky boulder problem start, protected only by a questionable old thin piton, leads to an excellent finger and hand crack in a steep groove. You can easily avoid the crux boulder problem by climbing the start of Geekiní Hard (bouldery 5.10d, but with good pro), then stepping right. The second pitch steps left up wild, steep liebacking with poor pro (RPs, tricky 3-3.5Ēcam), leading to a burly hand traverse/mantel and a bolt. Make a tenuous step left onto a ramp, and another bolt (which protects the follower very well). You can climb up then straight left to a bolted belay, but itís best to skip this and climb right past another bolt to a knobby thin crack which leads to the summit. If you use the intermediate belay, the traverse from the belay to the bolt is very intimidating, especially for the follower. Like the neighboring routes, expect a bit of lichen and grainy rock.
Climber Beta on Pencil Necked Geek
  A total of (1) submissions of route beta on Pencil Necked Geek
Which SuperTopo guidebooks include a topo for Pencil Necked Geek?

Tuolumne Free Climbs
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Everything You Need to Know About Tuolumne Meadows
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Other guidebooks that include info on Pencil Necked Geek
  • Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows, by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.
Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: August 25, 2003
West Cottage Dome - Pencil Necked Geek 5.11a R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Pencil-Necked Geek is route C
Photo: Greg Barnes
Other Routes on West Cottage Dome
West Cottage Dome - Cottage Cheese 5.10b - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Cottage Cheese, 5.10b
West Cottage Dome
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Cottage Cheese is route D
West Cottage Dome - Geekin' Hard 5.10d - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Geekin' Hard, 5.10d
West Cottage Dome
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Geekin' Hard is just left of route C
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