Bachar Yerian, Medlicott Dome, Right 5.11c X

   
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 30 minutes
Approach time: 30-45 minutes
Descent time: 1 hour
Number of pitches: 2
Height of route: 300'
Overview
FA: John Bachar, Dave Yerian, August 1981.

The most famous psychological testpiece in the U.S., the Bachar/Yerian takes the huge black streak up the golden wall of the right side of Medlicott. While rated X for the first half of the first pitch, the reputation comes more from lots of steep, sustained, hard climbing with R/X runouts. Many climbers have whipped big off the psychological crux second pitch (often because they got lost in the knobs and ended up too far to the side from a bolt to clip), and the slab climbing on the third pitch is no giveaway. It was originally rated 5.10d and, amazingly, also criticized for the “questionable ethics” of drilling from hooks instead of stance (which would be impossible on the vertical and gently overhung wall). The story of the second ascent by Steve Schneider is harrowing, since he broke a big knob, barn-doored out, saved it and swung back in, clung desperately for a while, then did the exact same thing again on another knob.
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Climber Beta on Bachar Yerian
  A total of (3) submissions of route beta on Bachar Yerian
Which SuperTopo guidebooks include a topo for Bachar Yerian?

Tuolumne Free Climbs
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Everything You Need to Know About Tuolumne Meadows
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Other guidebooks that include info on Bachar Yerian
  • Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows, by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.
Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: November 10, 2010
Medlicott Dome, Right - Bachar Yerian 5.11c X - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Greg Barnes
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