Errett Out, Dozier Dome 5.7 R
Tuolumne Meadows, California USA
Avg time to climb route: 2-3 hours
Approach time: 1 hour
Descent time: 1 hour
Number of pitches: 4
Height of route: 400'
OverviewFA: Grant Hiskes, John Shewchuk, Bill Serniuk, Errett Allen, September 2003.
Slab, knobs, knobs, and more knobs on three long pitches. You can rap from the top of Pitch 2 with two 60m ropes. Start up the slab past a bolt 15 feet up, then move 40 feet to the left on the ledge to a optional two-bolt belay. This belay is recommended for anyone leading near the grade of the route. Continue straight up to a hard-to-spot anchor after the 6th bolt – the belay anchor to the right is for Bit by Bit. The second pitch starts with runout knobs to a bolt 40 feet up, but you can diagonal left and clip the hidden anchor of Repo Man if you use long slings and are ready for some rope drag.
Pro 0.4-1.25” cams (first 2 pitches), a couple extra pieces in the 1-2” range for topping out.
Long-time local guide Grant Hiskes saw a bolt with a retreat biner on this route many years ago, and suspected that eastside local Errett Allen might have started the route just before leaving the area. After over a decade, Grant headed up on the route, and sure enough, the retreat biner was stamped “Errett”.
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