One Eyed Jack, Canopy World 5.10d X

   
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 2.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 30 minutes
Approach time: 1-1.5 hours
Descent time: 1-1.5 hours
Number of pitches: 1
Height of route: 100'
Overview
FA: Ed Barry, Tom Herbert, 1985

A great toprope, this extremely runout route defines the difference between old-school and new-school ratings. If it were bolted today, there would be tons more bolts and the rating would be closer to 5.11d than 5.10d. Ed Barry is one of the many little known strong California climbers, who 12 years after doing this route did the second ascent of Übermensch (5.14a) at Pinnacles. From the anchor of Kill Pickle, a directional can be set with tricky tiny micro-nuts at the ledge. Use great care setting this directional – if it fails the climber will be dropped a bit and will pendulum to the right.
Climber Beta on One Eyed Jack
  A total of (1) submissions of route beta on One Eyed Jack
Which SuperTopo guidebooks include a topo for One Eyed Jack?

Tuolumne Free Climbs
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Everything You Need to Know About Tuolumne Meadows
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Other guidebooks that include info on One Eyed Jack
  • Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows, by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.
Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: August 25, 2003
Canopy World - One Eyed Jack 5.10d X - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Sarah Felchlin
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