One Eyed Jack, Canopy World 5.10d X
Tuolumne Meadows, California USA
Avg time to climb route: 30 minutes
Approach time: 1-1.5 hours
Descent time: 1-1.5 hours
Number of pitches: 1
Height of route: 100'
OverviewFA: Ed Barry, Tom Herbert, 1985
A great toprope, this extremely runout route defines the difference between old-school and new-school ratings. If it were bolted today, there would be tons more bolts and the rating would be closer to 5.11d than 5.10d. Ed Barry is one of the many little known strong California climbers, who 12 years after doing this route did the second ascent of Übermensch (5.14a) at Pinnacles. From the anchor of Kill Pickle, a directional can be set with tricky tiny micro-nuts at the ledge. Use great care setting this directional – if it fails the climber will be dropped a bit and will pendulum to the right.
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