Harding's Chimney, Sugarloaf 5.8

   
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Lake Tahoe, California, USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 2 hours
Approach time: 25 minutes
Descent time: 25 minutes
Number of pitches: 1
Height of route: 300'
Overview
This is a classic old-school route for three reasons: it takes an obvious line, involves some spooky chimney climbing, and was put up by Warren Harding. The first pitch is the psychological and physical crux and features 5.8 squeeze chimney with a 50-foot runout (can be protected with 9-10 pieces). The second and third pitches are much more moderate and well-protected. The third pitch has a brief section of 5.7 face before an easy gully to a notch. Belay here and then do a short tunnel-through to the west side. For an alternate finish, stay on the east side and take the intimidating 5.8 stemming finish (look for the bolt and move right). Walk off to descend.
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Climber Beta on Harding's Chimney
  A total of (6) submissions of route beta on Harding's Chimney
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: September 2, 2008
Sugarloaf - Harding's Chimney 5.8 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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