God of Thunder, Lover's Leap, Dear John Buttress 5.11c

   
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Lake Tahoe, California, USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 5 minutes
Approach time: 15 minutes
Descent time: 15 minutes
Number of pitches: 1
Height of route: 70'
Overview
Many cracks and variations. On the first pitch of the standard right start, climb a thin crack and make a balancy and reachy step right. Hand jams lead to a 5.11a finger lock/reach crux. Take a few laps. The second pitch is rarely climbed. Steep 5.9 hands and face up to a 5.11b fist and lieback roof to a 5.9 offwidth. Then a final 5-foot roof (reach for the rail). A big reach to a small dike gets you over to the anchors. FA: Dario Gambetta, Tony Yaniro, 1978.

5.10c crack variation -Strenuous jamming with rests. Well-protected. Stay right of the corner.

5.9 corner variation -Fun stemming and jamming. Most climbers lead this pitch, then toprope the cracks to the right.
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff
Lover's Leap, Dear John Buttress - God of Thunder 5.11c - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
Route C in the photo.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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Route A in the photo.
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Route E in the photo.
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Route D in the photo
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