V Notch Couloir, Polemonium Peak III+ AI 4 5.5-5.8


High Sierra, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 4-8 hours
Approach time: 4-6 hours
Descent time: 5 hours
Number of pitches: 12
Height of route: 1200'
This is one of the classic Sierra mountaineering routes. It can be a snow slog in the spring, a heroic nieve dream in Aug, or a sweet alpine ice route in the fall. Climb it early in the day when the snow/ice is firm and loose rock flying down the couloir is at a minimum. Late day has debris randomly shooting at you. This is a classic route in a very unique way considering that you are climbing in the Sierra Nevada which has few real ice/snow routes that stick around all summer and fall. Climb it before the earth warms up too much and it becomes a nasty gully, I give it 30 years max.
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff Last update: June 12, 2013
Polemonium Peak - V Notch Couloir III+ AI 4 5.5-5.8 - High Sierra, California USA. Click to Enlarge
V Notch in red, descent in yello.
Photo: Ryan Crochiere
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