Ham and Eggs, The Mooses Tooth V, 5.9, AI 4

   
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Alaska, USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 8-16 hours
Approach time: 5 minutes fr. Root Canal
Descent time: 4-8 hours
Number of pitches: 18
Height of route: 2,900'
Overview
Ham and Eggs is one of the ultra-classic routes of the Alaska Range, providing a direct line to this popular summit. The climbing is fun and moderate, and it gives the feel of a big Alaskan alpine route. The climb is characterized by many short crux ice and rock sections connected by easier snow climbing. The corniced ridge to the summit is mellow by Alaskan standards, but can still be attention-getting at times. The views from the summit are truly awe-inspiring: a commanding view of the Ruth Gorge, Denali, Hunter, Huntington, the northern peaks, and the gnarly “Tooth” peaks adjoining the Mooses Tooth.

Oddly enough, the route took over 20 years to see a second ascent in the late 1990’s, but it became a trade route almost overnight when Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi started depositing climbers directly at its base. Now with its five-minute approach, this is a relatively safe and non-committing climb to test your Alaskan alpine skills.
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff
The Mooses Tooth - Ham and Eggs V, 5.9, AI 4 - Alaska, USA. Click to Enlarge
An overview of the line.
Photo: Mike Gauthier
Other Routes on The Mooses Tooth
The Mooses Tooth - Shaken, Not Stirred V, AI 5 - Alaska, USA. Click for details.
Shaken, Not Stirred, V, AI 5
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An overview of the line.
The Mooses Tooth - West Ridge V, 80-deg ice to main summit - Alaska, USA. Click for details.
West Ridge, V, 80-deg ice to main summit
The Mooses Tooth
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An overview of the line.
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