Southwest Ridge, Peak 11,300 V, 5.8, 60-degree ice+cornices


Alaska, USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 1-3 days
Approach time: 4-8 hours fr. W. Fork Airstrip
Descent time: 6-12 hours
Number of pitches: N/A
Height of route: 4,400'
Just because a peak doesn’t have a proper name, doesn’t mean it is not worthy. With neighboring peaks called the Mooses Tooth, Mount Silverthrone, and the Rooster Comb, this striking peak has been largely overlooked by climbers. For years it was only contemplated by hard men in the know. But attention shifted when Steve House picked the Southwest Ridge of 11,300 as his favorite in the modern day tick list – Fifty Favorite Climbs. It instantly became a classic and “11,300” is now attempted several times each season. By all means the Southwest Ridge is a superb ridge climb, offering Cassin-like climbing at a lower elevation and less commitment. The rock is excellent and the climbing never too difficult, yet continually challenging. And the peak’s location at the confluence of the West and Northwest Forks of the Ruth Glacier provides an unreal backdrop for a true technical mountaineering ascent. Rob Newsom, no stranger to hard climbs in Alaska, considers the top to be “One of the greatest summit views in the range.”
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Peak 11,300 - Southwest Ridge V, 5.8, 60-degree ice+cornices - Alaska, USA. Click to Enlarge
An overview of the line.
Photo: Joe Puryear
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