Sultana Ridge, Mount Foraker Alaska Grade 3, 55-degree snow


Alaska, USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 3-10 days
Approach time: 2-4 hours
Descent time: 2-3 days
Number of pitches: N/A
Height of route: From base: 10,500'
The Sultana Ridge of Mount Foraker is perhaps the most pure and scenic ridge climb in the Alaska Range. The seven-mile ridge undulates endlessly as it climbs over several smaller peaks along the way to Forakerís massive summit. After ascending the first peak, Mount Crosson, the ridge comprises the crest of the Alaska Range. The left side pours its ice into the Kahiltna Glacier, which runs south, eventually ending up in Cook Inlet. The right side heads to the great tundra of the north, eventually feeding the mighty Yukon River, which deposits into the Bering Sea. The Sultana ridge is a good alternative to the busy West Buttress of Denali. The climbing is similar in difficulty, but retreat is more difficult, camps more exposed, and there is no support network on the route. For this, you will be rewarded by a true feeling of remoteness and serenity. It is not uncommon to have the entire route to yourself.

The ridge is also the most common line of descent for the more technical routes on the peak. Many parties having more technical ambitions ascend this route not only for acclimatization purposes, but also to familiarize themselves with its intricacies.
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Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff
Mount Foraker - Sultana Ridge Alaska Grade 3, 55-degree snow - Alaska, USA. Click to Enlarge
The route follows the stunning center ridge.
Photo: Joe Puryear
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Infinite Spur, Alaska Grade 6, 5.9, M5, AI 4
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The route follows the stunning center ridge.
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