West Face, Mount Dickey II, 35-40 degree snow


Alaska, USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 5-12 hours
Approach time: 2-4 hours
Descent time: 3-6 hours
Number of pitches: N/A
Height of route: 5,000'
Mount Dickey (9,545’) holds one of the most impressive facades in all of the Alaska Range. Rising 5,000 feet straight out of the flat glacier, its east and south faces dominate the Ruth Gorge. Massive buttresses, fractureless planes, and insanely steep couloirs are intricately mixed to form a seemingly impenetrable bastion. It almost seems like cheating that you can easily walk up the western backside to the top of such a behemoth.

The West Face provides an excellent novice route that is equally enjoyed as a warmup for experienced climbers. The views are extensive, since Mount Dickey is one of the more prominent peaks in the area. In the 1956 American Alpine Journal, Bradford Washburn wrote of his climb of Dickey, “It would be hard to find a spot more easy of access where glorious glacier walks, easy lower climbs, and magnificent major ascents can all be accomplished out of the same air-supplied base camp, set amid North America’s finest scenery and hardly a day’s travel from New York!”
Mount Dickey was named after William A. Dickey (1862-1943). Dickey was a prospector who in 1896 named Mount McKinley after presidential nominee William McKinley of Ohio.
Photos - View all 2 photos of West Face as: Thumbnails | Slideshow
Climber Beta on West Face
  There are currently there are no beta messages posted for this route. Be the first!
Which SuperTopo guidebooks include a topo for West Face?

Alaska Climbing
Find other routes like West Face

Everything You Need to Know About Alaska USA
Search the internet for beta on West Face
  Search the internet for information on West Face
Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff
Mount Dickey - West Face II, 35-40 degree snow - Alaska, USA. Click to Enlarge
An overview of the line.
Photo: Mike Gauthier
SuperTopo Videos