South Face, Middle Troll III, 5.8, 45-degree snow


Alaska, USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Avg time to climb route: 2-5 hours
Approach time: 10 minutes
Descent time: 1-3 hours
Number of pitches: 7
Height of route: 1,300'
The three Trolls stand guard on the eastern rim of the upper Pika Glacier. They provide the easiest access of all the peaks in the area, being a mere ten minutes from the airstrip. The rock tends to be some of the best in Little Switzerland and many quality routes can be explored among the formations. In particular, the South Face of the Middle Troll (6,900 feet) is a fine objective on excellent rock and can either be a quick warmup for harder routes, or a fun goal for less experienced parties. The climb actually faces more southwest, but is commonly referred to as the South Face. As with all of the climbs in the area, the crux of the climb may be crossing the ever-changing moats and bergschrunds below the rock.
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Middle Troll - South Face III, 5.8, 45-degree snow - Alaska, USA. Click to Enlarge
An overview of the line.
Photo: Joe Puryear
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