New moderate problem established, "Sticks and Stones" V3, loads of fun and significantly longer than most other problems here. Also, quality of rock on this boulder is a bit better than average (ie. less gritty).
Itís on a large boulder/cliff downhill of the sticks boulders, the first rock you hit if you walk south from problem 25 in the supertopo guide. This is a very large bluff, more like a small cliff. On the south face, start on right-hand side in front of a tree. Stand start with jug at shoulder height, then move left and up to a sloper and continue to traverse left through a seam and then up and left to a juggy, high finish.
There's potential for plenty more to be done on this boulder.
Spent two days (October 28-29 2006) camping at "The Secrets"; Spent time specifically at the Snags, the Sticks, and the Mystics.
Great directions for how to find "The Secrets" in the guidebook. The only problem seemed to be the GPS coordinates which were off in a few places. I noticed that you revised those below however.
The maps are very accurate and the descriptions for the routes are as well. It's tricky for the first five minutes to find which boulders are which in the guidebooks, but onced matched up, it's all good from there. I was very impressed.
I am a beginner climber/boulderer so this was pretty intense and awesome for me.
I camped out on the trail inbetween the Snags parking lot and the Snags bouldering set. I spent the first day at the Snags. I was able to do the V0 to about V2 rated routes and at least was able to get pumped on all the other harder routes. I took my brush kit up there and spent quite a lot of time cleaning the routes for future use.
The second day, I checked out The Sticks and The Mystics. Very awesome indeed.
The only thing I didn't like was the fact that nobody was there. I was hoping there'd be lots of people there hanging out on their crash pads. I was hoping to get some insight and learn from more experienced guys but noticed I was the only one the entire weekend.
Other than that it was pretty awesome. I highly recommend it.
Note however that the Lover's Leap campground is closed for the season so be prepared to camp out in the woods around the bouldering problems (better anyways).
I'll be doing lots of bouldering and climbing all around...pretty much all the places listed in the Bouldering Lake Tahoe and South Lake Tahoe Climbing guidebooks. I'm always looking for partners and people to learn from. I have all the gear to boulder, top-rope, lead sport, etc. The only thing I lack is trad gear. Send me an email if interested at email@example.com
I think its worth noting that on the problem Heads Will Roll V4 that it only goes at that grade if the boulder at the base is off. The pic in the guide shows Shane Carrigan climbing this problem with his right foot on the small boulder. IMO its a soft 3 if you climb it that way. Anyone agree?
Also how do you guys feel about the grade on The Ring V6? I sent a couple weeks ago for one of my first 6s and I think I may have found easier beta. Is this a contrived problem? I didnt use any of the holds used for Thumb Buster V2 to the left. I was able to send without using the heavily chalked pinch hold for my hands only feet, and I went up and right.