Just a short note to let you know that I have recently visited the Secrets from the UK and really enjoyed the climbing there, its really varied - something for everyone!
The first ascents I did in the Mystics (although they may have been done since the guide came out) are as follows:
1. 'Ted's Arete' V4 - on the Grim Boulder the arete right of problem 23 is climbed on its left hand side from a standing start: some nice moves to join problem 23 to top out. We were surprised that this had been overlooked as it is an independant problem (climbed 29/8/07).
2. 'Tecate' V8+ - on Warrior Boulder, realisation of problem 44, the 'stunning project' (pronounced tecatay - there is no accent symbol that I can use in hotmail! Named after a cheap Mexican lager.) This is truly an amazing problem a little like a much easier version of Karma in Fontainbleau in France which Ben Moon climbs in the Real Thing, a British bouldering video from the 90's.
I wirebrushed the slab left of the seam to uncover a small hold for the left hand from the lichen. This hold is used once the bottom of the seam is grasped with the right hand. The left heel is placed on the starting jug and you then crank as high up the seam with your left hand as possible. The right foot then comes up to a small foothold which you can't see from below due to the bulging of the rock! (You need a friend to point it out for you). Once your right foot is on this hold you crank up and then press down with the right hand and mantel onto the slab (climbed 1/9/07).
All the best
Spent two days (October 28-29 2006) camping at "The Secrets"; Spent time specifically at the Snags, the Sticks, and the Mystics.
Great directions for how to find "The Secrets" in the guidebook. The only problem seemed to be the GPS coordinates which were off in a few places. I noticed that you revised those below however.
The maps are very accurate and the descriptions for the routes are as well. It's tricky for the first five minutes to find which boulders are which in the guidebooks, but onced matched up, it's all good from there. I was very impressed.
I am a beginner climber/boulderer so this was pretty intense and awesome for me.
I camped out on the trail inbetween the Snags parking lot and the Snags bouldering set. I spent the first day at the Snags. I was able to do the V0 to about V2 rated routes and at least was able to get pumped on all the other harder routes. I took my brush kit up there and spent quite a lot of time cleaning the routes for future use.
The second day, I checked out The Sticks and The Mystics. Very awesome indeed.
The only thing I didn't like was the fact that nobody was there. I was hoping there'd be lots of people there hanging out on their crash pads. I was hoping to get some insight and learn from more experienced guys but noticed I was the only one the entire weekend.
Other than that it was pretty awesome. I highly recommend it.
Note however that the Lover's Leap campground is closed for the season so be prepared to camp out in the woods around the bouldering problems (better anyways).
I'll be doing lots of bouldering and climbing all around...pretty much all the places listed in the Bouldering Lake Tahoe and South Lake Tahoe Climbing guidebooks. I'm always looking for partners and people to learn from. I have all the gear to boulder, top-rope, lead sport, etc. The only thing I lack is trad gear. Send me an email if interested at email@example.com