Changeling, Eagle Lake Cliff 5.9


Lake Tahoe, California, USA

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Routes on the right side of Eagle Lake Cliff.
Routes on the right side of Eagle Lake Cliff.
Credit: Chris McNamara

Routes on the right side of Eagle Lake Cliff.

Credit: Chris McNamara
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Trad climber
  Aug 4, 2010 - 12:52am PT


1) Changling now has anchors on it. You can toprope this by climbing climate control or going around west.

2) New route 10' to your back as you climb Changling 10 feet to left of Buster Brown. 5.10a crack good protection all the way., bring BIG gear if you are a wimp leader like me. Bring DOUBLE BIG gear then. Bring 2-#4's, 1 #3, 2-#2'S, sling to wrap chockstone, one of every small cam you have, 1- #5 BD if you are super wimpy. Save #4's for very top.

Top toprope hard to get to anchors. Go to top of climb via west approach. On top you will see two mature straight 20 foot pine trees. There is a crack between them, Down there there is a anchor. You could rap from anchor or crawl down and use a BD #3 and Orange Matolius to build anchor, to lower down to anchor. Be careful!

Climb is 25 feet 5.10a hands and fingers with a little lieback. Then hand jam over the hump, climb 25 feet 5.8 of 1' WIDE stuff with some chockstones. Top is 10 feet of fist jambs 5.10a , I'd use 2-#4's because I'm a wimp. Over all bomber protection if you have the big stuff. I didn't and it cost me 2 hours to figure all this out.

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Uploaded: Aug 4, 2008
Upload by: Chris McNamara
Photo ID#: 123924
Route: Space Walk, Eagle Lake Cliff
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