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Washington Pass Climbing
Authors: Ian Nicholson
Routes:  59 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 4th/5.2-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 248 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2012

 


Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Author Ian Nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. 

This book includes formerly obscure climbs and variations of all grades to provide more options for avoiding crowds. Included routes feature everything from short 4th class scrambles to 5.13 big walls. While the book features many hard test pieces in the region, there is a generous selection of moderate multi-pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.10 range. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
59 of the most classic climbs from the Beckey Route to Spontaneity Arête
20 never-before published topos
the best free and clean big walls, including Liberty Crack and Thin Red Line

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Washington Pass
First ascent history
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (318 KB)

Review
d"Getting lost on the way to the base of any of the climbs listed in this guide would be not only embarrassing, but perhaps a sign that your routefinding might not meet the challenge of any route that notes that it will be necessary." - SummitPost Read Review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of the climbs, Liberty Crack and Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress, on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, they may be the best climbing times you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Big Kangaroo - Kearney-Thomas III 5.11b or 5.10b C1 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Kearney-Thomas
III 5.11b or 5.10b C1, Big Kangaroo

Big Kangaroo
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Big Kangaroo
8
III 5.11b or 5.10b C1
4 Star Rating
Paisano Pinnacle - Rampage III 5.10d - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Rampage
III 5.10d, Paisano Pinnacle

The North Face of Paisano Pinnacle.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Paisano Pinnacle
N/A
III 5.10d
5 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Remsberg Variation II+ 5.10d - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Remsberg Variation
II+ 5.10d, Liberty Bell

Dale Remsberg nearly 20 years after making the first ascent. Now Technical Director of the AMGA.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Liberty Bell
7
II+ 5.10d
4 Star Rating
Burgundy Spire - Action Potential III 5.10c - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Action Potential
III 5.10c, Burgundy Spire

Burgundy Spire Action Potential
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Burgundy Spire
8
III 5.10c
3 Star Rating
Minuteman Tower - East Face III 5.10b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
East Face
III 5.10b, Minuteman Tower

Minuteman Tower East Face
Photo:Mark Allen
Minuteman Tower
6
III 5.10b
3 Star Rating
Liberty Crack Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10b C2+ or 5.13a/b
5 Star Rating
Thin Red Line Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10a or C3/A2 or 5.12b
5 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Northwest Face III 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Northwest Face
III 5.11a, South Early Winters Spire

The Northwest Face of South Early Winters Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
10
III 5.11a
5 Star Rating
Le Petit Cheval - The First Amendement IV 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The First Amendement
IV 5.11a, Le Petit Cheval

The North face of Le Petit Cheval as seen from the road.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Le Petit Cheval
10
IV 5.11a
3 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - Mojo Rising III 5.11b C1+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Mojo Rising
III 5.11b C1+, South Early Winters Spire

The Northwest Face of South Early Winters Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
5
III 5.11b C1+
4 Star Rating
Serpentine Crack
III 5.11b/c, Liberty Bell


Photo:
Liberty Bell
8
III 5.11b/c
4 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - Labor Pains III 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Labor Pains
III 5.11a, North Early Winters Spire

North Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
North Early Winters Spire
6
III 5.11a
3 Star Rating
Burgundy Spire - Ultra Mega OK III+ 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Ultra Mega OK
III+ 5.11a, Burgundy Spire

Burgundy Spire Ultra Mega OK
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Burgundy Spire
9
III+ 5.11a
2 Star Rating
South Early Winters Spire - The Passenger IV 5.12a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The Passenger
IV 5.12a, South Early Winters Spire

South Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
South Early Winters Spire
9
IV 5.12a
5 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Freedom or Death III or V 5.12a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Freedom or Death
III or V 5.12a, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Freedom or Death
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
14
III or V 5.12a
5 Star Rating
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