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Washington Pass Climbing
Authors: Ian Nicholson
Routes:  59 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 4th/5.2-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 248 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2012

 


Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Author Ian Nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. 

This book includes formerly obscure climbs and variations of all grades to provide more options for avoiding crowds. Included routes feature everything from short 4th class scrambles to 5.13 big walls. While the book features many hard test pieces in the region, there is a generous selection of moderate multi-pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.10 range. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
59 of the most classic climbs from the Beckey Route to Spontaneity Arête
20 never-before published topos
the best free and clean big walls, including Liberty Crack and Thin Red Line

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Washington Pass
First ascent history
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (318 KB)

Review
d"Getting lost on the way to the base of any of the climbs listed in this guide would be not only embarrassing, but perhaps a sign that your routefinding might not meet the challenge of any route that notes that it will be necessary." - SummitPost Read Review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of the climbs, Liberty Crack and Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress, on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, they may be the best climbing times you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Liberty Bell - Remsberg Variation II+ 5.10d - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Remsberg Variation
II+ 5.10d, Liberty Bell

Dale Remsberg nearly 20 years after making the first ascent. Now Technical Director of the AMGA.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Liberty Bell
7
II+ 5.10d
4 Star Rating
Serpentine Crack
III 5.11b/c, Liberty Bell


Photo:
Liberty Bell
8
III 5.11b/c
4 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Over Exposure II 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Over Exposure
II 5.8, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Over Exposure
Photo:Kurt Hicks
Liberty Bell
4
II 5.8
3 Star Rating
Liberty Crack Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10b C2+ or 5.13a/b
5 Star Rating
Thin Red Line Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10a or C3/A2 or 5.12b
5 Star Rating
Lexington Tower - East Face IV 5.9+ - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
East Face
IV 5.9+, Lexington Tower

Lexington Tower East Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Lexington Tower
9
IV 5.9+
5 Star Rating
Lexington Tower - North Face II 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
North Face
II 5.7, Lexington Tower

Lexington Tower North Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Lexington Tower
3
II 5.7
3 Star Rating
Lexington Tower - Tooth and Claw IV 5.12a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Tooth and Claw
IV 5.12a, Lexington Tower

Lexington Tower when viewed from the East
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Lexington Tower
8
IV 5.12a
4 Star Rating
Le Petit Cheval - Spontaneity Arête III 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Spontaneity Arête
III 5.7, Le Petit Cheval

The North face of Le Petit Cheval as seen from the road.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Le Petit Cheval
8
III 5.7
4 Star Rating
Le Petit Cheval - The First Amendement IV 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The First Amendement
IV 5.11a, Le Petit Cheval

The North face of Le Petit Cheval as seen from the road.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Le Petit Cheval
10
IV 5.11a
3 Star Rating
Kangaroo Temple - South Face III 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Face
III 5.8, Kangaroo Temple

Ian Nicholson leading Pitch 1 on the South Face of Kangaroo Temple.
Photo:Rebecca Schroeder
Kangaroo Temple
7
III 5.8
1 Star Rating
Juno Tower - Clean Break IV 5.10b/c - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Clean Break
IV 5.10b/c, Juno Tower

Tino Villanueva leads up the amazing Pitch 1 of Clean Break
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Juno Tower
15
IV 5.10b/c
5 Star Rating
Juno Tower - Vasliki Ridge  - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Vasliki Ridge
, Juno Tower

Juno Tower Vasliki Ridge
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Juno Tower
N/A
Cutthroat Peak - South Buttress III+ 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Buttress
III+ 5.8, Cutthroat Peak

An overview of the routes.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Cutthroat Peak
12
III+ 5.8
4 Star Rating
Cutthroat Peak - North Ridge III 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
North Ridge
III 5.7, Cutthroat Peak

Cutthroat Peak North Ridge
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Cutthroat Peak
13
III 5.7
3 Star Rating
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