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Washington Pass Climbing
Authors: Ian Nicholson
Routes:  59 (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty: 4th/5.2-5.13a, C1-C3
Pages: 248 pages
Edition: 1st Edition, August 2012

 


Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Author Ian Nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo. 

This book includes formerly obscure climbs and variations of all grades to provide more options for avoiding crowds. Included routes feature everything from short 4th class scrambles to 5.13 big walls. While the book features many hard test pieces in the region, there is a generous selection of moderate multi-pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.10 range. 

Features available in both Print Books and eBooks:  
59 of the most classic climbs from the Beckey Route to Spontaneity Arête
20 never-before published topos
the best free and clean big walls, including Liberty Crack and Thin Red Line

Most accurate and complete beta ever for Washington Pass
First ascent history
Loaded with full-page photos of color climbing action and rock formations


      View the Table of Contents (318 KB)

Review
d"Getting lost on the way to the base of any of the climbs listed in this guide would be not only embarrassing, but perhaps a sign that your routefinding might not meet the challenge of any route that notes that it will be necessary." - SummitPost Read Review

 

Try before you buy!
Weve put two of the climbs, Liberty Crack and Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress, on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, they may be the best climbing times you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Concord Tower - Tunnel Route II 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Tunnel Route
II 5.8, Concord Tower

Concord Tower Tunnel Route
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Concord Tower
3
II 5.8
3 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Freedom Rider V 5.10d or 5.11b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Freedom Rider
V 5.10d or 5.11b, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Freedom Rider
Photo:Mark Allen
Liberty Bell
14
V 5.10d or 5.11b
3 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - Flycatcher Buttress IV 5.10b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Flycatcher Buttress
IV 5.10b, North Early Winters Spire

The East Buttress’s of South and North Early Winters
Photo:Ian Nicholson
North Early Winters Spire
11
IV 5.10b
3 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - Chockstone Route II+ 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Chockstone Route
II+ 5.7, North Early Winters Spire

North Early Winter Spire - Blue Bradley follows Pitch 6 of the Chockstone Route
Photo:Larry Goldie
North Early Winters Spire
6
II+ 5.7
3 Star Rating
Northwest Face
II+ 5.9, Liberty Bell


Photo:
Liberty Bell
7
II+ 5.9
3 Star Rating
Le Petit Cheval - The First Amendement IV 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
The First Amendement
IV 5.11a, Le Petit Cheval

The North face of Le Petit Cheval as seen from the road.
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Le Petit Cheval
10
IV 5.11a
3 Star Rating
North Early Winters Spire - Labor Pains III 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Labor Pains
III 5.11a, North Early Winters Spire

North Early Winter Spire
Photo:Ian Nicholson
North Early Winters Spire
6
III 5.11a
3 Star Rating
Big Kangaroo - Beckey-Tate III 5.9 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Beckey-Tate
III 5.9, Big Kangaroo

Big Kangaroo
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Big Kangaroo
7
III 5.9
3 Star Rating
Burgundy Spire - Action Potential III 5.10c - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Action Potential
III 5.10c, Burgundy Spire

Burgundy Spire Action Potential
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Burgundy Spire
8
III 5.10c
3 Star Rating
Liberty Bell - Over Exposure II 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Over Exposure
II 5.8, Liberty Bell

Liberty Bell Over Exposure
Photo:Kurt Hicks
Liberty Bell
4
II 5.8
3 Star Rating
Minuteman Tower - East Face III 5.10b - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
East Face
III 5.10b, Minuteman Tower

Minuteman Tower East Face
Photo:Mark Allen
Minuteman Tower
6
III 5.10b
3 Star Rating
Cutthroat Peak - West Ridge III+ 5.7 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
West Ridge
III+ 5.7, Cutthroat Peak

Cutthroat Peak West Ridge
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Cutthroat Peak
9
III+ 5.7
2 Star Rating
Concord Tower - South Face II 5.6 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
South Face
II 5.6, Concord Tower

Alan Rousseau at the base of the South Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Concord Tower
3
II 5.6
2 Star Rating
Concord Tower - Patriot Cracks II 5.8 - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Patriot Cracks
II 5.8, Concord Tower

Concord Tower North Face
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Concord Tower
4
II 5.8
2 Star Rating
Burgundy Spire - Ultra Mega OK III+ 5.11a - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click for details.
Ultra Mega OK
III+ 5.11a, Burgundy Spire

Burgundy Spire Ultra Mega OK
Photo:Ian Nicholson
Burgundy Spire
9
III+ 5.11a
2 Star Rating
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