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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> The Road to the Nose Thursday, August 28, 2014 
 
 

Downloadable eBook (PDF)
Price: $14.95
The Road to The Nose
Routes: 14+ (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty:  5.9-5.10d and C1-C2
Pages: 60 color pages
Format: downloadable eBook (PDF)
Price: $14.95 

For most climbers, The Nose of El Capitan is such an outrageous challenge that climbing it is the crowning achievement of a climbing career. In our Road to The Nose guidebook, big wall master Chris McNamara takes you through a graduated series of 14 climbs of increasing difficulty to help you build skills, speed, endurance and comfort with big wall exposure. A SuperTopo for each of the 14 climbs is included, along with special tips and beta to help you. The program is split into five chapters:
Chapter 1: Overview of Your Road to The Nose
Chapter 2: Five Routes to Practice Aid Climbing
Chapter 3: Five Long Free Climbing Routes
Chapter 4: Five Classic Big Wall Routes
Chapter 5: Are You Ready for the Big Stone?

The training program starts in the climbing gym where you will build your basic lead and jumaring skills. The guide then takes you to Yosemite Valley, where you can practice aid climbing on short routes of increasing difficulty. The guide then takes you to long free climbing routes, to help you build the strong free climbing skills that are mandatory for an undertaking like the Nose. You'll climb some of Yosemite's best 5.9 and 5.10 routes, climbs that will give you a sense of what it is like to move over thousands of feet of rock in a day. Next, it's on to the big walls, with topos from classic starter big wall routes such as Washington's Column and onward to climbs like Half Dome's northwest face.

Along the way, McNamara tells how he learned to climb big walls and gives tips on how to effectively train and prepare for an undertaking like The Nose. If you complete all the training and routes in this pack, you will have greatly improved your climbing aptitude and developed the skills you need to tackle The Nose, one of the greatest rock climbs in the world.

Guidebook features:  
Most accurate & detailed topos ever!
First ascent history by Steve Roper

Iteneraries for getting the most of your trip
Detailed approach and descent beta
Strategy and retreat beta

Price: $14.95 (downloadable eBook)

      View the Table of Contents and Introduction

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      The Road to The Nose $14.95
Downloadable SuperTopo eBook (PDF: 2.2 MB, 60 color pages)


Try before you buy!
Take a look at our SuperTopo for The Nose on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best big wall climbing topo you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
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Route Name Formation Review
Washington Column - South Face C1 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
South Face
C1 5.8, Washington Column

The South Face of Washington Column.
Photo:Chris McNamara
Washington Column
10
C1 5.8
4 Star Rating
Washington Column - Prow C2F 5.6 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Prow
C2F 5.6, Washington Column

The line follows a series of small features.
Photo:Chris McNamara
Washington Column
12
C2F 5.6
4 Star Rating
Washington Column - Skull Queen C2 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Skull Queen
C2 5.8, Washington Column

Skull Queen.
Photo:Chris McNamara
Washington Column
13
C2 5.8
3 Star Rating
Royal Arches Area - Serenity Crack 5.10d - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Serenity Crack
5.10d, Royal Arches Area

Serenity Crack follows elegant line up horrible pin scars.
Photo:Todd Snyder
Royal Arches Area
3
5.10d
5 Star Rating
Leaning Tower - West Face C2F 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
West Face
C2F 5.7, Leaning Tower

The West Face of Leaning Tower.
Photo:Corey Rich
Leaning Tower
11
C2F 5.7
4 Star Rating
Higher Cathedral - Northeast Buttress 5.9 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Northeast Buttress
5.9, Higher Cathedral

Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral is one of the best Grade IV climbs in the Valley.
Photo:Greg Barnes
Higher Cathedral
11
5.9
5 Star Rating
Half Dome - Snake Dike 5.7 R - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Snake Dike
5.7 R, Half Dome

Snake Dike follows an amazing feature to one of the most incredible summits in Yosemite.
Photo:Chris McNamara
Half Dome
8
5.7 R
5 Star Rating
Half Dome - Regular Northwest Face 5.12 or 5.9 C1 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Regular Northwest Face
5.12 or 5.9 C1, Half Dome

The Regular Northwest Face.
Photo:Mark Kroese
Half Dome
23
5.12 or 5.9 C1
5 Star Rating
Five Open Books - Commitment 5.9 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Commitment
5.9, Five Open Books

Commitment takes the cleanest cracks of the Five Open Books.
Photo:Chris McNamara
Five Open Books
3
5.9
4 Star Rating
El Capitan - The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
The Nose
5.14a or 5.9 C2, El Capitan

The Nose—the best rock climb in the world!
Photo:Mark Kroese
El Capitan
31
5.14a or 5.9 C2
5 Star Rating
El Capitan - East Buttress 5.10b - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
East Buttress
5.10b, El Capitan

East Buttress with top of The Nose on left.
Photo:Mark Kroese
El Capitan
11
5.10b
3 Star Rating
El Capitan - El Cap Tree 5.7 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
El Cap Tree
5.7 C2, El Capitan

An adventurous 4 pitches of climbing.
Photo:Chris McNamara
El Capitan
5
5.7 C2
3 Star Rating
El Capitan - Pacific Ocean Wall Base 5.11b or C1 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Pacific Ocean Wall Base
5.11b or C1, El Capitan

Pitch 1 of Pacific Ocean Wall.
Photo:Chris McNamara
El Capitan
1
5.11b or C1
2 Star Rating
El Capitan - Salathe Base 5.10c - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Salathe Base
5.10c, El Capitan

The base routes are scattered to the left of the SE Buttress.
Photo:Chris McNamara
El Capitan
2
5.10c
5 Star Rating
El Capitan - Dihedral Wall Base A1 or C2+ - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Dihedral Wall Base
A1 or C2+, El Capitan

The first two pitches.
Photo:Chris McNamara
El Capitan
2
A1 or C2+
2 Star Rating
Next 15 Routes >> 



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