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Home >> Our Guidebooks >> The Road to the Nose Sunday, July 21, 2024 

Downloadable eBook (PDF)
Price: $14.95
The Road to The Nose
Routes: 14+ (click to see the complete route list)
Difficulty:  5.9-5.10d and C1-C2
Pages: 60 color pages
Format: downloadable eBook (PDF)
Price: $14.95 

For most climbers, The Nose of El Capitan is such an outrageous challenge that climbing it is the crowning achievement of a climbing career. In our Road to The Nose guidebook, big wall master Chris McNamara takes you through a graduated series of 14 climbs of increasing difficulty to help you build skills, speed, endurance and comfort with big wall exposure. A SuperTopo for each of the 14 climbs is included, along with special tips and beta to help you. The program is split into five chapters:
Chapter 1: Overview of Your Road to The Nose
Chapter 2: Five Routes to Practice Aid Climbing
Chapter 3: Five Long Free Climbing Routes
Chapter 4: Five Classic Big Wall Routes
Chapter 5: Are You Ready for the Big Stone?

The training program starts in the climbing gym where you will build your basic lead and jumaring skills. The guide then takes you to Yosemite Valley, where you can practice aid climbing on short routes of increasing difficulty. The guide then takes you to long free climbing routes, to help you build the strong free climbing skills that are mandatory for an undertaking like the Nose. You'll climb some of Yosemite's best 5.9 and 5.10 routes, climbs that will give you a sense of what it is like to move over thousands of feet of rock in a day. Next, it's on to the big walls, with topos from classic starter big wall routes such as Washington's Column and onward to climbs like Half Dome's northwest face.

Along the way, McNamara tells how he learned to climb big walls and gives tips on how to effectively train and prepare for an undertaking like The Nose. If you complete all the training and routes in this pack, you will have greatly improved your climbing aptitude and developed the skills you need to tackle The Nose, one of the greatest rock climbs in the world.

Guidebook features:  
Most accurate & detailed topos ever!
First ascent history by Steve Roper

Iteneraries for getting the most of your trip
Detailed approach and descent beta
Strategy and retreat beta

Price: $14.95 (downloadable eBook)

      View the Table of Contents and Introduction

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      The Road to The Nose $14.95
Downloadable SuperTopo eBook (PDF: 2.2 MB, 60 color pages)

Try before you buy!
Take a look at our SuperTopo for The Nose on this web site—free for you to download. Check it out, it may be the best big wall climbing topo you've ever seen!

Complete List of Included Climbs
[ Thumbnails  | Text ]
Route Name Formation Review
South Face Washington Column
C1 5.8
4 Star Rating
Prow Washington Column
C2F 5.6
4 Star Rating
Skull Queen Washington Column
C2 5.8
3 Star Rating
Serenity Crack Royal Arches Area
5 Star Rating
West Face Leaning Tower
C2F 5.7
4 Star Rating
Northeast Buttress Higher Cathedral
5 Star Rating
Snake Dike Half Dome
5.7 R
5 Star Rating
Regular Northwest Face Half Dome
5.12 or 5.9 C1
5 Star Rating
Commitment Five Open Books
4 Star Rating
The Nose El Capitan
5.14a or 5.9 C2
5 Star Rating
East Buttress El Capitan
3 Star Rating
El Cap Tree El Capitan
5.7 C2
3 Star Rating
Pacific Ocean Wall Base El Capitan
5.11b or C1
2 Star Rating
Dihedral Wall Base El Capitan
A1 or C2+
2 Star Rating
North America Wall Base El Capitan
5.11 or C2
2 Star Rating
Salathe Base El Capitan
5 Star Rating

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