huckfinn
Mountain climber
California
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Urizen
Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
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As of 6/30/2017 the route up the buttress appears to be snow-free. Not so for the usual line of descent. You'll probably have to follow a longer line towards the west end of the lake to stay on dry ground.
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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ruckoff,
seeing as how the route is north facing, and seeing how it was a big winter, I would venture to guess that the route may be snow covered, or is wet,and that the approach might involve walking in snow. It's a really fun route, though.
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RuckOff
Trad climber
Pascagoula, MS
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Hi all,
Does anyone have any information about current conditions on the NW Buttress....?
Thanks in advance.
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MattDaddy56
Mountain climber
Catheys Valley
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The route can get pretty crowded on the weekends and especially bottle necks at the last few pitches. Allow yourself extra time for slow parties. There are other options to the right, but nearly everyone waited for the line shown in the pic. There were probably 10 different parties (or more) of varying experience levels last weekend. We also took the ridge descent as opposed to the ledges. I think it's a good compromise and a safe descent.
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allanc
climber
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we did almost what pswitz did went back into trees on the descent to somewhere around the red 21 on his map. Would recommend trying to stay on slabs. Crunching through the forest was less than ideal and the mosquitos ate us alive.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sorry. My post should have said to head northeast, not northwest, which would simply lead back down the face.
John
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pswitz
climber
honolulu
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Throwing my hat into the best-way-to-descend fray:
This is a decent compromise between the direct-but-easy-to-F-up ledges route, and the head-way-the-hell-south-to-the-trail 5 mile option.
From the highway, you can see the obvious granite-topped hill that sits between the lakeside trail and the descent ridge. That's the main landmark and is easily seen on the topo. From the summit, descend the ridge. The ridge is broad and you don't want to stray too far from the lake-side drop off.
After passing a few towers/ notches/ steep gullies you will be able to make your way down 3rd class slabs to make contact with the forest. Head through forest toward the lakeside flank of the granite-topped hill. Once you hit the slabs of the hill, go down through the forest a few hundred vertical feet to the trail. I popped out around the midway point from sunrise junction and the main beach <10 min brisk trot to the beach.
65 min from Summit to beach, I was moving pretty quick with no gear, add 30 min for normal walking pace. All slabs encountered were easily walked down no hands required.
If you decide to go the trail option, commit all the way and drop down to Mildred lake, then contour around south to Sunrise Lakes and pick up the trail there. If you try to shave distance by heading straight southwest off the Tenaya ridge, you will regret it. Lots of rough terrain not visible on topo.
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TripletFritz
Trad climber
New Bern, NC
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Greetings! My very first post! How were the mosquitoes the past few weeks? We will be up on Tenaya Peak Aug 11, 2015 Fritz Seaman
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Although I haven't soloed it, it would be a relatively comfortable one. Not only is the difficulty modest, but there are so many choices of routes on the upper half that you can choose whatever makes you feel most comfortable.
I've never descended in the recommended way, however. We've always come down by heading northwest from the summit until a gully leads down near Pywiak Dome.
John
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squishy
Mountain climber
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Route is open, no snow on route. The waterfall on the bottom is running but easily climbed. Enjoy, I know I did...I didn't see a soul all day, had the whole mountain..
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dmayers311
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Soloed this today after psyching myself up to do it the past few tipsy nights. One thing I found missing from all the beta from the people that had soloed the route was how hard those people actually climb. I lead up to 5.9 or so in Tuolumne, and I did not feel sketched out on the route, although there are definitely no falls allowed on most of the route if soloing. Lots of options on where to climb, and the easiest topout moves around to the left near the top, and then back right to finish the last 60 feet or so. Lots of slab, lots of fun.
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matty
Trad climber
Sad the forum is gone =(
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Did it yesterday. Only a few very small easily avoidable snow patches. Mumm mummmm good. Don't bother bringing a topo, waste of time as there are so many easy options. Just go and climb.
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chick_on_ice
Trad climber
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Soloed this yesterday. Easy, fun climbing. Thought I was on pitch 6 when I actually reached the summit---goes by fast! Bring bug spray unless you're a slab peddling machine and can outrun the mosquitoes.
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mountainlion
Trad climber
California
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This was my first multipitch route and the second time I had ever climbed! Absolutely amazing! I like everything about the climb and the setting above the lake is super cool!
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traverpen1
Social climber
Fresno, Ca
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It's a fun climb, but it was really easy. Thought the guide book over did it on the rack. Our # 3 BD got used a couple of times and our # 4 got used once but weren't necessary. I've got mixed emotions on doubles from .6"-2". On one hand we only swapped gear twice and on the other it was a lot to carry. We soloed the first third, roping up in the midst of a long slabby section. If we had climbing shoes on we probably would have soloed more. We simul climbed the rest. The whole time we were never sure if we were on route, so we moved up via the path of least resistance. everything looked generally easy and solid. As a second there was one section of lichen finger crack (prob could have been avoided but fun) I was glad to have a belay for, and two others where a hip belay was comforting. I think we made two belay anchors on the climb. We are not great, fast, extremely fit or highly experienced alpine climbers (this was our second time simul climbing), and our climb time was 2.5 hrs. My notes were put on climbing shoes earlier and #3&4 BD were over kill.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Yay! I finally got to do this route after having it on "the list" for years. Hubby and I simulclimbed the whole thing with a 8.2 60 meter tied in in the middle - that worked great and was quite fast. I'll definately do this one again. The views from the top are awesome.
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Lucero
Trad climber
san jose
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We did our first solo climb yesterday on Tenaya Peak. Its easier than Cathedral Peak, and there were a couple here and there 5.6 and 5.7 take your time until you feel good moves (not pitches). If you want to rope up for the 14 pitches be open to soloing some of the 5.2 to 5.4 pitches. Its more enjoyable that way or you will be making a long day of climbing for too easy to rope up pitches. Although, if you are looking for a climb to learn how to place trad and multipitch, this is the climb for you.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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I do not really solo much, but soloed it a few days ago, taking the crack in nutjob's video the other day. Really cool finish to a nice clean climb. Some people said it was 5.8 in the topo, I thought it was easier..for this route following some topo would be a drag. Just follow the line you like..
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steele
Trad climber
CA
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Nutjob and Khan, looking at gigapan of Tenaya Peak, this is directly below the true summit. Maybe a .7-9 hand crack for 40' below/right of the main summit block--below that a 50' diagonal trough/handcrack left, maybe .6 or a finger/hand crack coming in from the right, maybe .8. This line would be to the right of the last bushes 200' below the summit or at the right edge of the dark gray rock band? Looks like a handcrack on top of a triangular pedestal. Thanks for the beta, BTW!
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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le_bruce has soloed this a bunch, and he and I did it last summer or two. That final steep bomber crack is like angels trumpeting your glorious finale! Probably the coolest solo moves I've ever done- I'm not a habitual soloer.
Edit: Here's a video of that crack:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/2010-08-or-therebouts-Tenaya-Peak-video/t10827n.html
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steele
Trad climber
CA
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I'll be climbing this in August and understand you can free solo all/most of it. My question is this: I see a diagonal 2" crack to maybe a 1-2" crack up a summit block to the middle/right, maybe 50-100' long. Anybody done this and know the rating?
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uhhuh
Social climber
nevada
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If you are worried about snow on this route...Tioga Road opened in the first week of May...you should wait at least three weeks. Check that wait three years...No wait...Wait for three years after you have stopped pulling plastic and have spent some time outside, otherwise I am sure you will be in deadly peril by leaving your car!
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danip
Boulder climber
Albany, CA
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thinking about climbing the NW buttress this weekend.
Is there still snow there?
Is it better to wait a couple of weeks?
Thanks
Dani
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squishy
Mountain climber
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a vid I made a few years ago of the route,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ef2c1DUrCeo
have free solo'd it since, one of my favorites..
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Danholio
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Climbed the route on Saturday, Sept 17, 2011 on a cloudless, windless day with perfect temps. To illustrate how crowded this route can be, there was not a single pitch that was unoccupied when we started (around 11am). Pretty much a non-stop train of climbers from base to summit. To illustrate the plethora of passing opportunities on this route, my partner ("jvSF") and I simul climbed the entire route and safely passed 11 climbers along the way. So... do not let perfect conditions and the crowds good weather can bring stop you from doing this Tuo classic.
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monolith
climber
state of being
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I hiked the backside today and saw two soloers do the route staying on rock, coming close to the large snowfield, and the second upper smaller one was not a problem. Regular descent still has a band of snow, I'd just walk down the west ridge slabs and thrash the final 200 yards to the Tanaya Lake trail.
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schaffner
Trad climber
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Anybody has been up there recently? I was wondering about the wetness/snow conditions on the route.
We were planning on doing a TP/Cathedral Peak linkup this weekend.
Update: This is the route on 7/17:
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Soloed this yesterday morning, took the rightmost "loose 4th class" variation. Beautiful clean granite for the most part. There was a pretty descent use trail on the approach.
The descent wasn't much fun though -- next time maybe I'll try just heading down the ridge to the trail.
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Stevee B
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Did this route Saturday, snow patch on the 5.2 face of pitch 12 made things exciting - the encasement of the two belay pins in ice at the top of the pitch made things fun too. The warning about snow on the route is legit, caveat emptor! But we had the route to ourselves and the weather was fantastic.
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backcountry
Trad climber
Tahoe City, CA
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Just found this forum and realize I'll be checking it for help and motivation often!
I would do this route again and bring a few friends who are new to climbing. They are sure to get hooked from a day like this.
Here's some pics and talk to add to the pile of Tenya Peak from a July 09 climb.
http://www.thebackcountry.net/bb/viewtopic.php?t=1596
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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I just got this beta on Tenaya Peak -
Just one party's opinion, but we thought the 30 minute approach to Tenaya Peak was low. More like 45 minutes, I think. Also, while going up I was asking people about the descent, and all 3 parties I asked said they were going the longer way, which is not emphasized in your guide. We went your guide's way, and it was rough. Ended up going too low on the ridge, then too high, etc, and took awhile to get back where we started. I think maybe the alternate way (which ends up along the
lake) should be given more attention, maybe saying that many parties
choose to go this way.
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Andrew F
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Did this route 6/18/09. There were still two big snow patches on the route, but they were easy to climb around without getting on any wet rock. The ledge descent looked very sloppy and full of snow. We followed the alternate descent down the ridge until we could cut right to bushwhack down to the trail around Tenaya Lake. Beautiful hike, but slather yourself in DEET first.
Don't bother bringing a topo, trying to stick to it would just slow you down. Pick a line that looks good and go for it. Everything is fun, and you would be hard pressed to find anything harder than 5.6, except near the very top. We found a cool variation by staying very far left, and ended up right next to the drop off into the amphitheater on the left for about 3 pitches with some cool exposure. Mostly 4th with one short 5.6 section.
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cencalclimber
climber
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Has anyone climbed this route this season? I'm wondering if the snow has melted enough to climb it...
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Fletcher
Boulder climber
Institute of Better Bouldering-DirtbagDad Division
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Hey Toreador... what you are describing sounds like a typical alpine climb. Bewildering route-finding is part of the fun! :-)
Still an all time fun favorite!
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Toreador
Trad climber
York, UK
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We did this route on 14 Sept and had the same experience as Brian9 a couple of years back. There were 8 independent teams on the route (it was a weekend) and none of us found the start using the Supertopo description. Most of us ended up starting somewhere around the end of pitch 1 or 2, but one team arrived at the bottom of pitch 6 believing they'd just scrambled up the waterchute mentioned below the start!
The Supertopo pitch descriptions seemed OK from pitches 2 to 6, and then again on the last 2, but in between nothing matched so we were presumably all off route. There were certainly rather more class 3/4 and fewer climbing pitches than expected.
We also opted for the longer walk out, and were rather surprised that the promised 'major trail' didn't appear until we were right by the lake! The books was right that it was a beautiful option though.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Check out the Gigapan of Tenaya Peak at
http://share.gigapan.org/viewGigapan.php?id=7059
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Aging Trad
Trad climber
Austin, TX
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Did this on 7/22/08. Terrific outing in an incomparable setting. We'd tried a few days earlier, but got rained off. Did three rotations of simul-climbing to get to the base of pitch 8. Did the rest a pitch at a time. A fun way to spend a day on the rock. Summit views are incredible!
With a bad knee and a bad ankle between us, we chose to opt for the "major hiking trail" descent. Ended up losing sight of the lake, Stately Pleasure, and pretty much anything we recognized. Thirty minutes or so of thrashing ensued before we crested a saddle and bushwhacked down to the main lake trail.
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AM
climber
DLFA
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Tons of fun. Snow/run-off was no problem. Soloed the first 7 "pitches" and simuled the second 7. Approach: 1hr, Climb: 2.5 hrs, Descent: 3hrs
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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drove by this route on July 6 2008. looks like it is now free from major snow patches but there might be some wet spots here and there
Some great photos and discussion of the route here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=620389
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summerprophet
Mountain climber
Cali Via Canada
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Climbed the route 06/24/07.
One of the most majestic routes I have ever done. The long sweeping buttress is incredibly easy and goes by fast. This is one of the few alpine routes where route finding is not really an issue.
That being said, I really recommend simul-climbing the route. It will be far more enjoyable than pitching it out. The climbing as rarely harder than 5.4 and the difficult sections are well protected.
Recomended Rack for Simul-climbing (30m of rope and 2 pieces of gear between climbers) 1 each Camalots 0.5 - 3, 1 each Stoppers #9,10,11.
The descent requires serious observation from the parking lot. Plan out the descent prior to leaving the road. When in doubt stay high.
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Jonathan Willy
climber
Bishop, CA
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did the route today, snow is really not an issue, mosquitos are. Very fun, the 5.8 crack finish is good hands and offers a great seat for the belay hanging out over the meadow. We felt comfortable doing the first 7/8 pitches in our approach shoes, but when you actually get to the start of the vertical climbing above the 2nd bench you may want your climbing shoes as your on a fine patina with a good finger crack.
Enjoy.
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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I climbed this route in 2002(see my post), and didn't speak to highly of it. In retrospect, it was one of the best routes for the grade that I've done.
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Duke-
Trad climber
SF, aka: Dirkastan
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DK and I did this as our first route together and it did not disappoint. We soloed up half of it and then I casted off for the top. When the rope came taught, DK simuled. I was so lost in the lovely climb that I was startled when I heard "Holy sh#t, we are really up here man!" With a piece of pro or two a pitch, we strung out the remainder with not a piece to spare. PURRRRRFECTTTTT! You feel like you are on a ramp to heaven. Perhaps my fondest climbing memory.
-D
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brian9
Trad climber
black isle scotland
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An excellent route that we thoroughly enjoyed as our first on a 3 week holiday to the the sierra. Most of the climbing is very easy (lower class 5 or below, UK vdiff to severe on slabs).
We chose the longer descent which we enjoyed with a bit of bushwacking down to tenaya lake (maybe 2-3 hrs up and 1.5 hrs down).
Great views and great rock!
I have to say though that I found the supertopo no use at all in tracing the route.We eventually put it away and just kept climbing up one of the many lines.
We simply climbed upwards keeping close to the left crest especially on the upper part.
I spoke to 2 other parties that day and neither could find the route from the supertopo diagram.
We had a similar experience on Cathedral peak with parties spread all over the lower buttress with supertopo as reference and not obviously on any of the 3 lines suggested.
We tried the right hand varient and couldn't equate the supertopo with the actual rock face. How about some good old additional text referencing the buttress ie 'start 50ft right of the toe of the buttress beside the obvious bush.... etc'.
brian
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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My 14-year-old son and I climbed it rather uneventfully in early August. I think the first few boulder moves just right of the crack above the belay ledge on pitch 14 are 5.8 (but are much easier if you move to the right), and are harder than the upper "5.8" crack. Having descended the ledges--which I didn't like--last year, I decided to take the longer alternative. SuperTopo states "keep hiking down the ridge until you reach a major hiking trail, then follow this back to the right." However, we searched in vain for the trail and wound up descending all the way down the ridge to a stream. It looked like we were many miles from the highway and we didn't know what the terrain would be like. After trekking cross-country toward the northwest toward Mt. Hoffmann, we skirted the south flank of a small dome and eventually arrived at the trail along the south shore of Lake Tenaya. We were in radio contact with my wife and she met us at the Sunrise trail head just south of the lake. Fortunately the cross-country trek was relatively clear of brush and easy walking. It took us only 2 hours to descend from the summit, but we took our time and could have done it much faster. I see that "Em" below had a similar experience.
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Crodog
Social climber
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Climbed route on 9/4/05 with my son. Just as we were moving over to the beginning of the route a large rock fall started from the top. We sheltered behind a ledge. A lot of material went over us. After it was over there were impact strikes were we had been standing. There were also impact strikes most of the way up the climb. Keep an eye out for places to shelter in case of rock fall.
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