Trip Report
well...it's...Crying Time Again: serial Tuolumne TR with new photos every trip
Sunday July 22, 2012 1:49pm
Been getting up to the Meadows with John making the transition from leading him up climbs to having him take the hard leads! Click on any of the photos for larger ones.

TM has been up there every weekend just like the old days. Looking good for somebody who is about to turn 104 years old.

TM Herbert chatting with Adamame, young John doing "slightly awkward",...
TM Herbert chatting with Adamame, young John doing "slightly awkward", Chris and Gwen helping provide an audience for Jesse's ranger coffee
Credit: Mike Bolte

Cathedral Peak to judge just how out of shape I've become (answer: the hike in was a personal epic, but managed to survive in, up and back out).

Found this little guy on the trail on the way in.
Found this little guy on the trail on the way in.
Credit: Mike Bolte

5.4 hand crack start to Cathedral. Santa Cruz friends Adam, Chris and ...
5.4 hand crack start to Cathedral. Santa Cruz friends Adam, Chris and Gwen showed up and soloed the route.
Credit: Mike Bolte

Nice hand crack alternate to the left of the chimney.
Nice hand crack alternate to the left of the chimney.
Credit: Mike Bolte

The down climb just before the summit block
The down climb just before the summit block
Credit: Mike Bolte

Everybody who showed up at the base turned out to be a friend from San...
Everybody who showed up at the base turned out to be a friend from Santa Cruz. Mark Seelos cruising up behind us
Credit: Mike Bolte

Only a couple of other parties up there despite it being a Sunday with perfect weather
Trish! Send me a note and I'll send a few photos
Trish! Send me a note and I'll send a few photos
Credit: Mike Bolte

Fabulous view from the top
Fabulous view from the top
Credit: Mike Bolte

Next up, Crying Time Again. Haven't been up there since about 1985. Just like I remembered (superb route) except the bolts are good now.

Looking down at the kid on the "direct" P1 (Cry Baby) of Cryin...
Looking down at the kid on the "direct" P1 (Cry Baby) of Crying Time Again. Good climbing up to the big ledge.
Credit: Mike Bolte

Pitch 2: the funky chicken move is still funky
Pitch 2: the funky chicken move is still funky
Credit: Mike Bolte

The big comfy ledge is still big and comfy
The big comfy ledge is still big and comfy
Credit: Mike Bolte

Pitch 3: excellent steep knobs to a balancey step up to snag a good le...
Pitch 3: excellent steep knobs to a balancey step up to snag a good ledge and hand traverse left to the belay.
Credit: Mike Bolte

Pitch 4 is a little daunting to look at, but everything shows up as yo...
Pitch 4 is a little daunting to look at, but everything shows up as you need it.
Credit: Mike Bolte


The 10a option up the headwall. A bit of a sport climb with all the bo...
The 10a option up the headwall. A bit of a sport climb with all the bolts, but excellent steep edges right to the top.
Credit: Mike Bolte

The view from the top of Lembert
The view from the top of Lembert
Credit: Mike Bolte

The NW Face of Lembert with Crying Time. Arrow points to some guy on the first nice 5.9 knobs section.
Credit: Mike Bolte

Someone on the NW Books
Credit: Mike Bolte

Nice evening up at Junction Campground
Credit: Mike Bolte

Quick run up to Medlicott and Shagadelic. This really is a great route. One of the best 5.8s up there I think.

Minerals and George R. were heading up to put up new routes at West Farthing.
Credit: Mike Bolte
Credit: Mike Bolte

It was too nice a day to be in a rush. Beautiful Saturday and only one other party on the route.
Credit: Mike Bolte

Pitch 2 of Shagadelic
Pitch 2 of Shagadelic
Credit: Mike Bolte

Pitch 3 of Shagadelic. There is a bit of 5.8 up there for sure.
Pitch 3 of Shagadelic. There is a bit of 5.8 up there for sure.
Credit: Mike Bolte
We heard voices coming from the Yawn. John said "must be some old dudes". I realized the voice was familiar. Sure enough, old school dude Steve M. and honorary old-school-dude Jacob from Santa Cruz! If you know where to look you can see Steve deep in the chimney
Credit: Mike Bolte

Stopped by to see the boys doing the Good Work there at West Farthing - some really nice looking rock there.
Minerals: tap, tap, tap
Minerals: tap, tap, tap
Credit: Mike Bolte
Credit: Mike Bolte
West Farthing Wall. Minerals and George adding a second pitch to one o...
West Farthing Wall. Minerals and George adding a second pitch to one of their routes up high. Someone enjoying another of their climbs there.
Credit: Mike Bolte

EDIT:

Another quick trip to the meadows. The kid and I zipped up the Regular Route on Fairview. First did this line in 1983. A great route.

John racking up for P1
John racking up for P1
Credit: Mike Bolte
We had a 60m rope. P1 to the tree ledge at 200', P2 up the beautiful c...
We had a 60m rope. P1 to the tree ledge at 200', P2 up the beautiful corner, stem around the little roof and belay at a little ledge. One more pitch takes you to Crescent Ledge in three 200' pitches.
Credit: Mike Bolte
John pulling the roof with a particularly dramatic camera angle.
John pulling the roof with a particularly dramatic camera angle.
Credit: Mike Bolte
Set the controls for the center of the Sun
Set the controls for the center of the Sun
Credit: Mike Bolte
Pitch 6 or so. Big clouds everywhere.
Pitch 6 or so. Big clouds everywhere.
Credit: Mike Bolte
The summit. Nice place to get stuck by lightning.
The summit. Nice place to get stuck by lightning.
Credit: Mike Bolte
The view is hard to beat
The view is hard to beat
Credit: Mike Bolte
The walk off
The walk off
Credit: Mike Bolte
Of course, can't spend more than 24 hours in Tuolumne without running ...
Of course, can't spend more than 24 hours in Tuolumne without running into a friend from Santa Cruz. Joe D. taking a break from putting up new routes.
Credit: Mike Bolte

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Mike Bolte
About the Author
Mike Bolte is a trad climber from Planet Earth.

Comments
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Jul 22, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
Nice. Thanks for the photos. Can't wait to get back there...

Adorable baby Mountain Chickadee.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Jul 22, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
Meadows porn . . . so sweeet.

pud

climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
  Jul 22, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
Nice report.
Thanks !
Dick Erb

climber
June Lake, CA
  Jul 22, 2012 - 06:43pm PT
Thanks Mike. Good pics, great climbing, beautiful place.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jul 22, 2012 - 06:50pm PT
Beauty. Thanks.
JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
  Jul 22, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
Nice! I thought your mugs looked familiar...was at the parking lot during that rainy day Thursday.
Zander

climber
  Jul 22, 2012 - 10:35pm PT
Very nice. I love Crying Time Again. thanks for posting.
Zander
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
  Jul 22, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
The best kind of fun... fun in The Meadows.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Jul 22, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
Good stuff!
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
  Jul 23, 2012 - 02:27am PT
Holy Sh#t, I think I was camped right next to you guys at the Junction.

Nice TR.
Risk

Mountain climber
Marooned, 855 miles from Tuolumne Meadows
  Jul 23, 2012 - 02:34am PT
Now, I'm really homesick. But, better to be homesick than to have no home! Thanks Mike, for sending out so clearly that special Tuolumne feeling for all of us stranded too far away for easy escapes.
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
  Jul 23, 2012 - 04:12am PT
Nice TR. What happened to that cute little baby bird?
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
Fluoride - don't know. It was on the trail. Looked around for a nest and did not find one. No agitated parents were around either. So we left it up in some bushes and wished it good luck.

Crimper - it was too big to be a mountain chickadee I think. If it had been in Santa Cruz, I would have guessed it was a mockingbird chick.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  Jul 23, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
Nice Mike!
jahil

Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
  Jul 23, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
Nice report Mike - hope to join you on the next outing !
steve
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
  Jul 23, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
I think it was a baby Clark's Nutcracker
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
I think C Nutcracker is a good guess. Certainly plenty of adults in the meadows.
ImplicitD

Trad climber
Boise
  Jul 23, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
One of my favorite routes ever.

Wasnt the FA team ostrasized for placing too many bolts?
Jake M.

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
  Jul 23, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
Hey Mike nice photos! I was a beautiful day on Saturday. I was the one up there with Steve on the Yawn, what a great route...

Hope to see you at Pacific Edge some time.

Jacob
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jul 23, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
Fine TR, pics and climbing. Thanks for posting it.

John
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
Hey Jacob! Sorry I did not get more or better photos of you guys over there. You were cruising. The Yawn is a fabulous line.

Joey: what was with that rain? Worked out OK - I needed a nap to kick off the trip.
Fletcher

Boulder climber
Institute of Better Bouldering-DirtbagDad Division
  Jul 23, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
This is the good stuff. Thanks for the report!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 23, 2012 - 09:31pm PT
VEry nice, did you find crying time again run out???
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
Warning, Warning: beta

I would not give Cryin Time an R rating as in the book. Do the direct 5.8 first pitch to the right side of the ledge. Gear in the initial crack then a bolt every 20 feet or so.

The "5.7R" mantle on the second pitch has a bolt at little below your feet and you'd have to be unlucky to hit the ledge if you fell off the mantle which isn't really a mantle. Might have to think a minute after that making the last moves to the nice ledge a little way out from your last pro.

Third pitch is almost a sport climb there in the steep section. At the traverse, you step up to reach an excellent ledge for your hands. There is a bolt a few feet below your feet, but it would be a very clean fall. The traverse is unprotected, but short and easy once you get your hands on the ledge.

Next pitch is well bolted.

The 10a last short pitch to the top is really tightly bolted.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Jul 23, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
Tasty little chunks of rock candy. Yeah Baby.
Always cool to make a Herbert sighting!
cowpoke

climber
  Jul 24, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
beautiful pictures! looks super fun!
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz
  Jul 31, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
nice photos, as always Mike...well done...looks like John has been crushing, if you feed them and clothe them properly you get a rope gun...sweet...
Animule

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jul 31, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
Thanks for the pictures of Cathedral--it's one of my favorite climbs!
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
  Jul 31, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
Good stuff...
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
  Jul 31, 2012 - 05:23pm PT
Very nice!

What happened to the little bird?
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Author's Reply  Jul 31, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
Fluoride - don't know. It was on the trail. Looked around for a nest and did not find one. No agitated parents were around either. So we left it up in some bushes and wished it good luck.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Author's Reply  Aug 4, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
Added some new photos from yesterday climbing the RR on Fairview.
Peter Astroman

Big Wall climber
Orange County, CA
  Sep 10, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
I'm glad to hear someone put some more pro on the last pitch of Crying Time Again. I took a very long and injurious fall after I grabbed what may have been loose rock (maybe first thaw). I'd like to go do it, safely, now!
Greg Barnes

climber
  Sep 10, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
The last pitch is still super runout - what everyone does is the "McDevitt" finish which is tightly bolted and about 20' right of the original finish.

That traverse on the top of the 3rd pitch is more "R" for the follower than the leader.

The new route alternate to the first pitch (technically the first 2 original pitches) is Cry Baby, a new route (2010 or 2011?) by Brian Bennett (not sure who his partner was - maybe George R?). Those may still be (new) 1/4" bolts, not sure if Brian got back to replace them yet.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Sep 10, 2012 - 07:24pm PT
Nice tr! Good to see TM back in the scene.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Sep 10, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
Jesus, Mary and Joe! Didn't I meet you in Santa Cruz? I meet a lot of the Tuolumne crowd in Santa Cruz. :)

Fairview is, by fair, the best dome across from Daff Dome (dafdd). Nice repeat, too. Lotsa guys fail the second time...no names, Throwpie, protect the innocent.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Author's Reply  Sep 11, 2012 - 11:06am PT
Yes, we took the Crybaby start - it is excellent. Also did the tightly-bolted 10a finish that Greg describes and Dan put up about 30 or 40 feet to the right of the belay at the top of Pitch 4.

Mouse - don't know if we know one another!
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
  Sep 11, 2012 - 12:37am PT
quality pics guys, thanks
paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
  Sep 11, 2012 - 01:48am PT
Great photos, great climbs... it's nice to have pics isn't it?!
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Author's Reply  Sep 11, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
yup - the digital camera thing is a revolution.

Jim - saw a lot of TM this summer. He is looking good and still telling stories that have everyone around rolling on the ground.

My son was impressed many times.

Herbert: "what didja climb today"
John: "Crescent Arch"
Herbert: "I remember doing the second ascent of that and the first free ascent... [hilarious story followed]"

This seemed to happen for every route we did this summer.
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