Trip Report
well...it's...Crying Time Again: serial Tuolumne TR with new photos every trip
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Sunday July 22, 2012 10:49am
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Been getting up to the Meadows with John making the transition from leading him up climbs to having him take the hard leads! Click on any of the photos for larger ones.
TM has been up there every weekend just like the old days. Looking good for somebody who is about to turn 104 years old.
Cathedral Peak to judge just how out of shape I've become (answer: the hike in was a personal epic, but managed to survive in, up and back out).
Only a couple of other parties up there despite it being a Sunday with perfect weather
Next up, Crying Time Again. Haven't been up there since about 1985. Just like I remembered (superb route) except the bolts are good now.
The NW Face of Lembert with Crying Time. Arrow points to some guy on the first nice 5.9 knobs section.
Someone on the NW Books
Nice evening up at Junction Campground
Quick run up to Medlicott and Shagadelic. This really is a great route. One of the best 5.8s up there I think.
Minerals and George R. were heading up to put up new routes at West Farthing.
It was too nice a day to be in a rush. Beautiful Saturday and only one other party on the route.
We heard voices coming from the Yawn. John said "must be some old dudes". I realized the voice was familiar. Sure enough, old school dude Steve M. and honorary old-school-dude Jacob from Santa Cruz! If you know where to look you can see Steve deep in the chimney
Stopped by to see the boys doing the Good Work there at West Farthing - some really nice looking rock there.
EDIT:
Another quick trip to the meadows. The kid and I zipped up the Regular Route on Fairview. First did this line in 1983. A great route.
Mike Bolte
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About the Author
Mike Bolte is a trad climber from Planet Earth. |
Comments
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jul 22, 2012 - 01:07pm PT
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Nice. Thanks for the photos. Can't wait to get back there...
Adorable baby Mountain Chickadee.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jul 22, 2012 - 02:18pm PT
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Meadows porn . . . so sweeet.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Jul 22, 2012 - 02:22pm PT
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Nice report.
Thanks !
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Dick Erb
climber
June Lake, CA
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Jul 22, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
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Thanks Mike. Good pics, great climbing, beautiful place.
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micronut
Trad climber
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Jul 22, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
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Beauty. Thanks.
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khanom
Trad climber
Greeley Hill
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Jul 22, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
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Hmm... a smile outta Mr. Law. He looks almost friendly.
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Jul 22, 2012 - 07:22pm PT
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Nice! I thought your mugs looked familiar...was at the parking lot during that rainy day Thursday.
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Zander
climber
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Jul 22, 2012 - 07:35pm PT
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Very nice. I love Crying Time Again. thanks for posting.
Zander
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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Jul 22, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
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The best kind of fun... fun in The Meadows.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jul 22, 2012 - 11:27pm PT
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Holy Sh#t, I think I was camped right next to you guys at the Junction.
Nice TR.
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TMJesse
Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
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Jul 22, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
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Now, I'm really homesick. But, better to be homesick than to have no home! Thanks Mike, for sending out so clearly that special Tuolumne feeling for all of us stranded too far away for easy escapes.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 23, 2012 - 01:12am PT
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Nice TR. What happened to that cute little baby bird?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Author's Reply
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Jul 23, 2012 - 09:13am PT
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Fluoride - don't know. It was on the trail. Looked around for a nest and did not find one. No agitated parents were around either. So we left it up in some bushes and wished it good luck.
Crimper - it was too big to be a mountain chickadee I think. If it had been in Santa Cruz, I would have guessed it was a mockingbird chick.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jul 23, 2012 - 09:01am PT
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Nice Mike!
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jahil
Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
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Jul 23, 2012 - 09:15am PT
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Nice report Mike - hope to join you on the next outing !
steve
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10b4me
Social climber
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Jul 23, 2012 - 09:18am PT
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I think it was a baby Clark's Nutcracker
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Author's Reply
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Jul 23, 2012 - 10:04am PT
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I think C Nutcracker is a good guess. Certainly plenty of adults in the meadows.
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ImplicitD
Trad climber
Boise
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Jul 23, 2012 - 11:32am PT
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One of my favorite routes ever.
Wasnt the FA team ostrasized for placing too many bolts?
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Jake M.
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Jul 23, 2012 - 11:49am PT
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Hey Mike nice photos! I was a beautiful day on Saturday. I was the one up there with Steve on the Yawn, what a great route...
Hope to see you at Pacific Edge some time.
Jacob
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 23, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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Fine TR, pics and climbing. Thanks for posting it.
John
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Author's Reply
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Jul 23, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
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Hey Jacob! Sorry I did not get more or better photos of you guys over there. You were cruising. The Yawn is a fabulous line.
Joey: what was with that rain? Worked out OK - I needed a nap to kick off the trip.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The great state of advaita
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Jul 23, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
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This is the good stuff. Thanks for the report!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Jul 23, 2012 - 06:31pm PT
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VEry nice, did you find crying time again run out???
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Author's Reply
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Jul 23, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
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Warning, Warning: beta
I would not give Cryin Time an R rating as in the book. Do the direct 5.8 first pitch to the right side of the ledge. Gear in the initial crack then a bolt every 20 feet or so.
The "5.7R" mantle on the second pitch has a bolt at little below your feet and you'd have to be unlucky to hit the ledge if you fell off the mantle which isn't really a mantle. Might have to think a minute after that making the last moves to the nice ledge a little way out from your last pro.
Third pitch is almost a sport climb there in the steep section. At the traverse, you step up to reach an excellent ledge for your hands. There is a bolt a few feet below your feet, but it would be a very clean fall. The traverse is unprotected, but short and easy once you get your hands on the ledge.
Next pitch is well bolted.
The 10a last short pitch to the top is really tightly bolted.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 23, 2012 - 07:34pm PT
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Tasty little chunks of rock candy. Yeah Baby.
Always cool to make a Herbert sighting!
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cowpoke
climber
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Jul 24, 2012 - 02:16pm PT
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beautiful pictures! looks super fun!
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Jul 31, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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nice photos, as always Mike...well done...looks like John has been crushing, if you feed them and clothe them properly you get a rope gun...sweet...
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jul 31, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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Stellar climbing! Nice tapping!
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Animule
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 31, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
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Thanks for the pictures of Cathedral--it's one of my favorite climbs!
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Jul 31, 2012 - 01:30pm PT
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Good stuff...
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 31, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
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Very nice!
What happened to the little bird?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Author's Reply
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Jul 31, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
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Fluoride - don't know. It was on the trail. Looked around for a nest and did not find one. No agitated parents were around either. So we left it up in some bushes and wished it good luck.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Author's Reply
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Aug 4, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
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Added some new photos from yesterday climbing the RR on Fairview.
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gf
climber
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Aug 20, 2012 - 06:01am PT
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Mike,
I've been enjoying this thread; how nice you can get out with your boy and enjoy such a beautiful place.
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Peter Astroman
Big Wall climber
Orange County, CA
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Sep 10, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
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I'm glad to hear someone put some more pro on the last pitch of Crying Time Again. I took a very long and injurious fall after I grabbed what may have been loose rock (maybe first thaw). I'd like to go do it, safely, now!
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Sep 10, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
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The last pitch is still super runout - what everyone does is the "McDevitt" finish which is tightly bolted and about 20' right of the original finish.
That traverse on the top of the 3rd pitch is more "R" for the follower than the leader.
The new route alternate to the first pitch (technically the first 2 original pitches) is Cry Baby, a new route (2010 or 2011?) by Brian Bennett (not sure who his partner was - maybe George R?). Those may still be (new) 1/4" bolts, not sure if Brian got back to replace them yet.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 10, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
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Nice tr! Good to see TM back in the scene.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 10, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
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Jesus, Mary and Joe! Didn't I meet you in Santa Cruz? I meet a lot of the Tuolumne crowd in Santa Cruz. :)
Fairview is, by fair, the best dome across from Daff Dome (dafdd). Nice repeat, too. Lotsa guys fail the second time...no names, Throwpie, protect the innocent.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Author's Reply
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Sep 11, 2012 - 08:06am PT
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Yes, we took the Crybaby start - it is excellent. Also did the tightly-bolted 10a finish that Greg describes and Dan put up about 30 or 40 feet to the right of the belay at the top of Pitch 4.
Mouse - don't know if we know one another!
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Sep 10, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
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quality pics guys, thanks
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Sep 10, 2012 - 10:48pm PT
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Great photos, great climbs... it's nice to have pics isn't it?!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Author's Reply
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Sep 11, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
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yup - the digital camera thing is a revolution.
Jim - saw a lot of TM this summer. He is looking good and still telling stories that have everyone around rolling on the ground.
My son was impressed many times.
Herbert: "what didja climb today"
John: "Crescent Arch"
Herbert: "I remember doing the second ascent of that and the first free ascent... [hilarious story followed]"
This seemed to happen for every route we did this summer.
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