Trip Report
son of dawn wall at the pinnacles with dad!!!!!

by whitemeat
Saturday November 2, 2013 11:11pm
so as it is approaching winter time we knew pinnacles season is here! as last year we got shut down on son of dawn wall due to the bird closers we were ready to climb the route! it as a fun trip but a very adventurous and scary trip! the first half was pretty cruiser as it was well protected and well traveled. the second half entering the chimneys was when it really got gnarly! as I would be 40 feet above a peice of sh#t cam in horrible rock that surely blow, I was pulling 5.9 chimney moves trusting knobs that were coverd in moss and flexing! other then all that it was a great fun adventure and well worth the drive!

at the base
at the base
Credit: whitemeat
mark leading pitch 1
mark leading pitch 1
Credit: whitemeat
looking down while leading P2
looking down while leading P2
Credit: whitemeat
gymnastic jugging
gymnastic jugging
Credit: whitemeat
pitch 3
pitch 3
Credit: whitemeat
high quality bolts
high quality bolts
Credit: whitemeat
the chimneys
the chimneys
Credit: whitemeat
mark following chimney pitch 1
mark following chimney pitch 1
Credit: whitemeat
mark leading the last pitch to the ridge
mark leading the last pitch to the ridge
Credit: whitemeat
mental duct tape!
mental duct tape!
Credit: whitemeat
register
register
Credit: whitemeat
we left our topos for the register
we left our topos for the register
Credit: whitemeat
at the top!
at the top!
Credit: whitemeat
looking back at the climb!
looking back at the climb!
Credit: whitemeat
Credit: whitemeat

  Trip Report Views: 1,875
whitemeat 		About the Author
whitemeat is a trad climber from San Luis Obispo, CA.

Comments
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rnevius

Trad climber
The Range of Light
  Nov 2, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
Aid climbing at the Pinns sounds absolutely terrifying...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Nov 3, 2013 - 12:13am PT
Cool!
high quality bolts
high quality bolts
Credit: whitemeat
But I noticed in another shot, there was a good bolt about 2' above this, so you backcleaned it!
looking down while leading P2
looking down while leading P2
Credit: whitemeat
I replaced a bunch of the bolts on that route.
Definitely the chimneys up high are a lot harder than the bolt ladders.
rnevius

Trad climber
The Range of Light
  Nov 3, 2013 - 12:17am PT
The whitemeat seems to be a big fan of the back-cleaning.
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
  Nov 3, 2013 - 08:41am PT
Ha, Ha,

The mice made quite a home in that shredded summit register!

I've had more of my share, dealing with mice, over the years.

You sure have your stoke on for climbing.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Nov 3, 2013 - 08:51am PT
the ancient voices guiding wiley
thoughts instruct us to give most
monies to charity and then
climb with a minimal rack
reflecting the bold ascents
of our predecessors
which mandates back-cleaning
the toilet bowl of modern
perception.

we make a quilt weaving in and
out of the mountain patches:
our vision is the needle,
our sinewy cord, the thread,
the dream the machine driving us madness.

cool, whitemeat, your quilt is
coming along proud,
when it's done, it'll have those
interrupted seams that allow
the merry breezes their way.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
  Nov 3, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
Nicely done the two of you.

Hey, your photo/topo doesn't show the newest line up Machete: Los Banditos. It's a very nice climb (according to us first ascentionists and to the two parties that I know of that have repeated it). Here's a link to a route description and topo for Los Banditos (look at the first entry in the thread, which is a list of new routes at Pinns; all the way at the bottom of that list):

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=886.0
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Nov 3, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
Very obscure, nice tick with dad!

Jesus, those chimneys have a twisted past.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
  Nov 3, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
Next up should be Los Banditos. Very solid route.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/los-banditos/108388241
The Larry

climber
  Nov 3, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
Nice work men.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Nov 4, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
Haven't been to the Pinns for a while. The rocks looks like popcorn ceiling texture! Good job making it through intact!
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo
  Nov 4, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
Sweet... awesome adventure with your pops.
TFPU
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Nov 4, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
hey there say, whitemeat... great share...

me, i do not know and understand the climbing-spot, or the issues
with the terrain, etc, like they do...

or the neat details to share, but:

i sure LOVE father-son trips!!!
and the greatoutdoors and the view!
and the job well done, and the good tries, as well...

thanks for sharing... :)
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Nov 5, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
Great work. I am so ready for a Pinnacles trip. Thanks for whetting my appetite.

John
eKat

climber
  Nov 11, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
BBST!

(As a reminder = BBST = donini for Bump for a Better SuperTopo)
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