The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2

 
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El Capitan


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
nose bail, top of boot!!!
Wednesday May 1, 2013 9:50pm
so this is a report of me (Mickey Sensenbach) and Aaron Stireman going for the nose! we were going to do something a bit easier but its hard to resist NO crowds, yes thats NO crowds, on the nose! so full of stoke we went for our first grade 6 and our first real wall! we bailed because of the king swing. there was little duck tape on the boot and we did not feel comfortable swinging around on it. we were still super stoked to get farther then most parties on there try onsight without having much experince! so here we go:

getting ready to go fix to sickle at 2 AM, 2 AM because we could not s...
getting ready to go fix to sickle at 2 AM, 2 AM because we could not sleep in camp 4 because there rangers walken around and didnt want to get busted for dirt bagen it!
Credit: whitemeat
Aaron on Sickle
Aaron on Sickle
Credit: whitemeat
me on sickle
me on sickle
Credit: whitemeat
Credit: whitemeat
looks like some pretty tretcherous 4th ahead, JK
looks like some pretty tretcherous 4th ahead, JK
Credit: whitemeat
jugging our fixed lines in the morning
jugging our fixed lines in the morning
Credit: whitemeat
Credit: whitemeat

Credit: whitemeat
yikes!
yikes!
Credit: whitemeat
Aaron after back cleaning the stove legs
Aaron after back cleaning the stove legs
Credit: whitemeat

on dolt
on dolt
Credit: whitemeat
Aaron doing the atlas
Aaron doing the atlas
Credit: whitemeat
Credit: whitemeat
approaching el cap tower
approaching el cap tower
Credit: whitemeat
Credit: whitemeat

dinner!
dinner!
Credit: whitemeat
leading the boot
leading the boot
Credit: whitemeat
top of boot and relizing we cant do the swing safley ):
top of boot and relizing we cant do the swing safley ):
Credit: whitemeat
top of boot
top of boot
Credit: whitemeat
STOKED
STOKED
Credit: whitemeat
after been eating cold canned soup and power bars french toast is prim...
after been eating cold canned soup and power bars french toast is prime!
Credit: whitemeat

so thats it, how did you do the king swing?

  Trip Report Views: 1,674
whitemeat
About the Author
whitemeat is a trad climber from San Luis Obispo, CA.

Comments
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fat-n-sassy

Social climber
San Francity, CA
  May 1, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
Really liked this!
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
  May 1, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
confused, were you afraid of swinging over the duct tape that was there or were you afraid of swinging over the boot because there wasn't enough duct tape?
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
  May 1, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
Sounds like a damn solid effort. Hard to beat this for a learning experience. Grats on going big even if it came up a bit short.
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Author's Reply  May 1, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
afraid of swinging across boot because not enough duck tape, like 6" of tape and seemed to be a 3' edge.
Burch3y

Mountain climber
I offer nothing to the discussion
  May 1, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
Stoke!!!!!!!

and elaborate on the tape, dawg.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  May 1, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
n00b STOKE!!

Way to go for it fellas. You'll be amazed when you find out how doable the King Swing is.

A few thousand parties did it without duct tape. When did that start anyway? Never even heard of it. Did the Boot move and make the edge more dangerous or what?

Gawd we were hard men back in the day.....
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  May 1, 2013 - 10:39pm PT
Couldn't the belayer watch the rope/edge while the leader swings?
Could even drop trou' and pad the edge with their pants!

I've never even looked for duct tape there, but my partners and I always did it as a tension traverse, without swinging.


I see a photo in the "Route Beta" section which advises a rope protector on the edge of Sickle.
Did your rope abrade there, which created the concern for Boot?
Jumaring on a rope is different than penduluming -
 usually many more up/down cycles when jumaring
 the angle and pressure of the rope on the edge of Sickle is probably greater than on Boot
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  May 1, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
Clint, as a tension traverse? really?



Whitemeat, nice going big! if no crowds, I don't blame ya.


did you guys do a lot of free climbing or more stirrups?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  May 2, 2013 - 01:04pm PT
Clint, as a tension traverse? really?

Yes, really.

Few people do it that way, though.
You place an intermediate nut/cam which was a fixed pin on the old topo.
It was kinda funny - Tom Evans saw us doing it that way and noted it in his El Cap Report.
It went a lot faster for us than it did for the party ahead of us - they were up there for a long time, and finally asked us for advice, but didn't take it....
http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-92909
"Behind them, another team of two climbed the Boot and did the KS, well sorta… they did some funky tension traverse utilizing gear out left of the toe of the Boot, and eventually ending up at the correct spot … would have been faster to actually do the swing, but to each his own, as they say."

It's probably true that you can do it faster by running (if you know the right place to lower to), but I can't run due to spasticity / old spinal cord injury.
King Swing without running 1/5
King Swing without running 1/5
Credit: Tom Evans / www.elcapreport.com
King Swing without running 2/5 <br/>
&#40;Place marginal gear here, where ...
King Swing without running 2/5
(Place marginal gear here, where there was once a poor fixed piton)
Credit: Tom Evans
King Swing without running 3/5 <br/>
&#40;reach to small corner&#41;
King Swing without running 3/5
(reach to small corner)
Credit: Tom Evans
King Swing without running 4/5 <br/>
&#40;step over small corner&#41;
King Swing without running 4/5
(step over small corner)
Credit: Tom Evans
King Swing without running 5/5
King Swing without running 5/5
Credit: Tom Evans

P.S. Mickey - looks like you had a good time. Like Will says below, you just need to retitle this as a "training run". :-)
G Zeus

Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
  May 2, 2013 - 12:21am PT
How not to King Swing.

Spring Break 97 right after the park reopened post flood.

There was a fixed line from the top of Boot Flake around the corner to another belay. Doug decided to jug it instead of doing the swing. What we didn't know was how it was fixed to the other anchor.

Doug jugged out of sight around the bulge, then all hell broke loose. He came flying back into sight, taking a huge backward King Swing whipper on our lead rope, stopping somewhere down on Boot Flake.

We didn't know what had happened until he jugged back up to the belay and we checked out the end of the fixed rope. It had been threaded through the eye of a fixed pin and knotted to a piece of webbing tied to the bolt anchor. After holding Doug long enough to get near the belay, the webbing shredded and the knot in the fixed line slammed the eye of the pin, cleaning it, and sending Doug off on an awful reverse pendulum.

We weren't laughing at the time but I find it hilarious I've seen the King Swing done both forward and backward!
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  May 2, 2013 - 04:38am PT
i think you were off route.
you climbed the high heel, not the boot.
and you got lost trying to find
the queen swing with the padded seat.

good job up to there, though.
RP3

Big Wall climber
Sonora
  May 2, 2013 - 05:40am PT
Way to go for it! You will surely crush it next time. Don't be afraid of that edge. Thousands of people swing over it with no issues...
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  May 2, 2013 - 06:03am PT
Way to go Meat,
you'll cruz it next try.
Hard to believe you had the stone to yer self,
way cool!
Tad
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
  May 2, 2013 - 07:11am PT
really awesome man, way to get after it. Glad you had a great time and learned a lot. Hope I can get that far on my first try :-)
Some Random Guy

climber
  May 2, 2013 - 07:59am PT
whitemeat and the other whitemeat crushing it!

Could even drop trou' and pad the edge with their pants!
has anyone ever doen the KS naked????
now i want too!!!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  May 2, 2013 - 08:26am PT
Isn't El Cap tower an amazing place to sleep? Wait till Camp V! LOL

So, you do not need tape. Keep the rope to the left of the boot (when you are facing it). On my trip it took us like 2 hours to get through that swing (figure out where you run from/technique). For one, you do not have to be both on top. One could be belaying from top of texas. He lowers the leader while he cleans all gear that was placed (aside from a few slings that are on bolts bellow). Than run go right, run left, JUMP over the gap (important), run a bit more, grab the edge/crack, get to a tiny stance, pray you don't blow it, climb up a crack (5.8-9ish?) without placing pro and pray you don't blow it, mantle to a belay ledge. Will post a video tonight.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  May 2, 2013 - 08:29am PT
+1 for BAWLZ!
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
  May 2, 2013 - 08:53am PT
Has anyone ever bailed from the Nose ;) Well done for a first effort and a great adventure.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  May 2, 2013 - 09:41am PT
CMac and Sean Leary show us how to do the Swing in 30 seconds:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A35_KOT9_rI

"Too easy."
Spanky

Social climber
boulder co
  May 2, 2013 - 10:11am PT
Nice work monkeys now get back up there and send that sh$t! Just kidding you guys are killing it. I was just starting to lead when I was 16 and would definitely have messed my drawers with that kind of exposure. BTW the upper part of the route is even better.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  May 2, 2013 - 10:14am PT
Wait til you see those dihedrals up high.

You will:
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  May 2, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
Even though you didn't make the top, you gave it a solid effort, and got rewarded by uncrowded conditions. I, too, was unaware of the duct taping issue, and agree that it was unnecessary for countless parties in my time. That said, I've found all kinds of creative ways to fail on walls, only to discover (or realize) the way around my dilemma after I got down. Don't worry: If you did this well on your first wall, you've got a bright wall-climbing future.

I hope you had a great time, because I thoroughly enjoyed your pictures and report. Thanks.

John
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
  May 2, 2013 - 12:46pm PT
Nice work Whitey. Gotta work on your excuses though. No "bail", instead you went on "a practice run" to the top of the Boot. Just a
"shakedown cruise" to dial your systems for a "future ascent".

I wish I'd started as young as you and had the Valley as a weekend destination, makes me jealous!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 2, 2013 - 06:44pm PT
Way to go meat!!!!!
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
  May 2, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
Nice effort! But you need a better excuse to bail then that...
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
  May 2, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
you'll send next time! good TR nonetheless
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
  May 2, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
It is actually easier to go to the top than to rap out from Boot Flake.

The last 1000 ft. is in a corner that is 90% 5.9...
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