Trip Report
mini-TR: P3 Reed's Pinnacle Direct (OW)
Tuesday January 13, 2015 11:22am
From atop P2 it's easy to change your mind about doing P3- there's a water streak, that maw is awful dark, my biorhythms are not peaking today, etc...

On this day in June 2010 I got it done.

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P2
P2
Credit: NutAgain!
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P3: Starts with step out over the chasm in the tunnel-through before h...
P3: Starts with step out over the chasm in the tunnel-through before heading up.
Credit: NutAgain!
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P3: Approaching the technical business. The switch from back/feet to b...
P3: Approaching the technical business. The switch from back/feet to back/knee chimney above that chasm is rated well below the crux, but it was the most memorable part of the climb for me, with reasonable pro uncomfortably out of reach.
Credit: NutAgain!
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P3: More relaxed with some pro. But I wouldn't go so far as to call it...
P3: More relaxed with some pro. But I wouldn't go so far as to call it bomber.
Credit: NutAgain!
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P3: Maybe finagling to get in a piece here?
P3: Maybe finagling to get in a piece here?
Credit: NutAgain!
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P3: This is a more secure position, but not by much and it doesn't loo...
P3: This is a more secure position, but not by much and it doesn't look like I clipped anything new yet.
Credit: NutAgain!
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P3: On with the awkward business.
P3: On with the awkward business.
Credit: NutAgain!
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P3: What is an external oblique anyways? Working those core muscles, a...
P3: What is an external oblique anyways? Working those core muscles, and where do I hope to place that biggish cam in my left hand?
Credit: NutAgain!
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P3: Goin' for it
P3: Goin' for it
Credit: NutAgain!
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P3: Still goin' for it
P3: Still goin' for it
Credit: NutAgain!
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P3: Looks like I've got it licked, don't blow it!
P3: Looks like I've got it licked, don't blow it!
Credit: NutAgain!
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P3: Booyah! Can't say it was on sight because I had been on the ledge ...
P3: Booyah! Can't say it was on sight because I had been on the ledge atop P2 a handful of times, but it was first time I tried to climb that pitch. Honestly I was way more concerned about the bottom half of the pitch than the crux.
Credit: NutAgain!
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P3 Reed's Pinnacle Direct
P3 Reed's Pinnacle Direct
Credit: NutAgain!
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NutAgain!
About the Author
NutAgain! is a trad climber from South Pasadena, CA.

Comments
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jan 13, 2015 - 02:46pm PT
Thanks for that post! Just what Walleye said. I love seeing that transition between heel-knee and heel-toe and imagining the relief. I don't remember the earlier crux.
msiddens

Trad climber
  Jan 13, 2015 - 06:34pm PT
Nice job buddy!!! Killer spot right
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jan 13, 2015 - 06:39pm PT
Nice one! Way intimidating to look at that corner.

The angle of your pics makes it seem different than how I remember it.

TFPU
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Wyoming
  Jan 13, 2015 - 06:57pm PT
Good for you Nutty. I am sick of climbers avoiding this pitch. But it is, after all, the third pitch of the route. People that can monkey-bar the main/2nd pitch very well may be incapable of firing this last pitch, what with it not having much to hang on to in any conventional sense.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Jan 13, 2015 - 07:25pm PT
That was rad sequence..
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Jan 13, 2015 - 07:25pm PT
Rad is right. Thanks for the great photos.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jan 14, 2015 - 12:24pm PT
The kind of pitch you were born to climb, Nut.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jan 14, 2015 - 01:23pm PT
[
People that can monkey-bar the main/2nd pitch very well may be incapable of firing this last pitch, what with it not having much to hang on to in any conventional sense.

The truth, Peter. I always thought it was interesting that this pitch got climbed before the rest of the route, because it's so intimidating (at least it was to me).

This is the best set of pictures of the last pitch I've ever seen. Thanks, Nut Again!

John
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
  Jan 14, 2015 - 04:28pm PT
That was my first route in the Valley. I led the first, Wilford led the second and Ken Duncan (I think) led the last pitch. None of us knew any better.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
  Jan 14, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
That last photo of you on top is great
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Jan 14, 2015 - 07:21pm PT
Right on, thanks for the report and pics.
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
  Jan 15, 2015 - 09:49am PT
Solid!!
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Jan 15, 2015 - 11:06am PT
Hey, good goin.
Thanks for the pictures.
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