Trip Report
margaret lake, kirkwood lake, shealor lakes (and the rocks nearby)
Thursday September 4, 2014 9:38am
the full version of this tr with more words and pictures can be found on powdork.com

for the last several weeks we've been exploring the rock walls surrounding some of the off the beaten path lakes in the kirkwood area. among these are kirkwood lake, margaret lake, shealor lakes and old camp bluff near silver lake.
we started off with a day trip to margaret lake. i had been there before just after i started climbing so i knew there was potential but wasn't aware of any development.
last time i was there (august 2012) it looked like this


fast forward 2 years and we came back armed with a rope and a full rack. turns out the rack was just extra weight since walking to the top there were several sets of bolts lining the ridge. that worked out well since the hike in took longer than expected and work was looming on the horizon. once the top rope was up we started climbing.
jasmyn went first


followed by skylyn working her way up the corner


and finally they let me climb. this would have been an uncomfortable lead since there was no pro between the top of the corner until the top except for an uncomfortably flexy pinnacle that could be slung


then it was the dogs turn for fun as they showed us their new synchronized swimming routine




the following week we took a camping trip to kirkwood lake. in addition to excellent rock, kirkwood lake has a rope swing.
jazzy takes off innocently enough. nacho is behind stoke


but nacho jumps in early and she lands on him (you can see him just under her kneee).


do not like do not like!



the next day we headed to shealor lakes. i've lived in tahoe for 20 years now and had never heard of shealor lakes. but recently on the way to work we stopped into sports ltd and dan k. mentioned some climbing in the area. we were late for work and missed some details but we figured we could find it.
after a wrong turn or two we did find it. but naturally there was some 'nature' involved.


after a little more 'do not like' the pups were excited to be on the ledge.


obviously, jasmyn was excited too


ashley says "i'll take the sharp end"


clipping


the 4th bolt was where we all got stymied


so we top roped from there


here's a view of the zone. the red represents our route and there are a couple bolted lines to the right as well. i tried soloing up the yellow line to go around and set up a top rope but the rock got super slick and i'm a giant wuss. down climbing with my pack was super fun though (do not like)


then we hit shealor lake where the doggies played careers. stoke was so excited to finally become assistant branch manager we didn't have the heart to explain he was assistant to the branch manager.


lots of reasons to come back


that afternoon we made our way over to the wall behind our camp site at kirkwood lake. we found this last year but i wasn't leading much at the time so i wanted to get back


jasmyn follows. this has one of the coziest belay stations around




line #2 on top rope


jazzy looks up the chimney


on the arete after the chimney


this tr is brought to by speakeasy's double daddy (do like)


#hashtag


the next day it was off to old camp bluff. the water tower marks the start of the short approach


look mom, no hands


jazzy making it look easy




ashley too


our final route of the trip



thanks for looking

  Trip Report Views: 2,963
i'm gumby dammit
About the Author
i'm gumby dammit is a sport climber from da ow.

Comments
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W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
  Sep 4, 2014 - 09:41am PT
It's trip reports like this that make me miss the hell out of living in Reno and climbing/recreating in Tahoe. Glorious granite, blue skies, awesome aquatic features, rad forests

#FIRE #FYAH #HASHTAG

thanks for posting up and sharing the stoke!
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Sep 4, 2014 - 09:42am PT
Looks like some great cragging, thanks.
lars
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Sep 4, 2014 - 09:48am PT
Damn. Nice rock y'all have out there.
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
  Sep 4, 2014 - 09:49am PT
Need to get to that part of the woods for sure!

TFPU!

Andrzej
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Sep 4, 2014 - 09:53am PT
Looks like an awesome time! I wish I was into climbing back when I lived in Tahoe for a bit :(

Oh, and you forgot to bring this one over from the blog so I'll help:
Credit: Gumby
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Sep 4, 2014 - 09:53am PT
Great TR. thanks for sharing.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 4, 2014 - 10:02am PT
good stuff.


paging Dr. Dingus, your patient is waiting in the Kirkwood operating room.


Doggggiieeeeeeeesssss!


Jebus H Bomz

climber
Old West Crackramento
  Sep 4, 2014 - 10:06am PT
I've never 'splored out there, but it sure looks like a wonderland of rock. Thanks for the TR!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Sep 4, 2014 - 11:29am PT
TRs with dogs: 10+
TRs with borderless pics: 10++
TRs with rope swings into lakes: 10+++
clode

Trad climber
portland, or
  Sep 4, 2014 - 12:31pm PT
Like!
Mikemcee

Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
  Sep 4, 2014 - 12:50pm PT
Powdork bringing the summer stoke to ST!

We spent last weekend at Lake Kirkwood. So much fun rock and a great hang. Lots of low angle, discontinuous climbing but super high quality rock, easy approaches, and plenty of fun. We did find some limited route development over the hill and through the woods but generally, it felt like everything we got on was super fresh. Oh, and the lake. Yes.

Looked like there were some great lines down in the canyon but we never ventured that far out.
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
  Sep 4, 2014 - 04:17pm PT
that area at shealor is called the breakdown area, todd o and jobe put those up a few years back. theres another area right across from there that stays shaded all afternoon! weve been at it for awhile there, headn out monday, me and chim, come on out! i think you'll like it, its called the garden wall. later
Dingus Milktoast

Trad climber
Minister of Moderation, Fatcrackistan
  Sep 4, 2014 - 04:29pm PT
I hate that place.

DMT
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
  Sep 4, 2014 - 04:35pm PT
^^^
What a couple of downers.

Nice TR, Gumby!
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
  Sep 4, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
All righty, that was almost as fun as the real thing.
Dingus Milktoast

Trad climber
Minister of Moderation, Fatcrackistan
  Sep 4, 2014 - 04:42pm PT
Oh app, you silly man!

I was there yesterday. Literally. I was there last week with LS. I've posted pics and TRs from that place for, maybe a decade or so?

When I say I hate that place I am saying its a Place of Magic and Power. My kids both learned to climb there and when they were little girls they would play in the rock dens as I bouldered around them.

My youngest did her first OW there. I repeated that route yesterday ;)

Is that enough hate for you?

DMT

ps. Nice TR I'm Gumby Damnit. I might need to hit you up for some beta.
Mikemcee

Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
  Sep 4, 2014 - 04:50pm PT
In other words...THANK YOU Ron Anderson for leaving out of the guidebook you can hardly find anyway!

I'm with DMT...it is magical when you can just explore.

Now pls nuke this thread Powdork!!
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
  Sep 4, 2014 - 05:06pm PT
Sorry, DMT. Master of literal, here.
Dingus Milktoast

Trad climber
Minister of Moderation, Fatcrackistan
  Sep 4, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
And I am a master of obfuscation ;)

So cheers to you and that gumby damnit too!

DMT
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Author's Reply  Sep 5, 2014 - 09:19pm PT
that area at shealor is called the breakdown area, todd o and jobe put those up a few years back. theres another area right across from there that stays shaded all afternoon! weve been at it for awhile there, headn out monday, me and chim, come on out! i think you'll like it, its called the garden wall.
the tall shady wall that you're facing as you approach breakdown?
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 6, 2014 - 08:52am PT
Beautiful spot, doesn't get any better than that!!!!
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Author's Reply  Sep 6, 2014 - 09:14am PT
?
garden wall?
garden wall?
Credit: i'm gumby dammit
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
  Sep 6, 2014 - 09:45am PT
not that one, to the lookers right....
dan kennedy, on fa of power player, 12a ish
dan kennedy, on fa of power player, 12a ish
Credit: the czar
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Sep 6, 2014 - 12:33pm PT
Looks like a cool craging area.
TFPU
Tad
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
  Jul 28, 2015 - 06:44pm PT
After a short stint at The Poodle Wall (hurr,hurr) we drove down the road and hiked out to The Garden Wall near Shealor Lakes good stuff. Needs some traffic a bit mossy in spots.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jul 28, 2015 - 11:09pm PT
Such a great TR, gets my mind humming again.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Author's Reply  Jul 28, 2015 - 11:20pm PT
We went and looked at the poodle wall recently too. then turned and went back to kirkwood lake
this was cleaner
this was cleaner
Credit: i'm gumby dammit
jonnyrig

climber
  Jul 28, 2015 - 11:43pm PT
Nice to see you and the fam getting after it. Your website's neat too. Keep at it.
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
  Jul 29, 2015 - 06:21pm PT
Sorry Mr. Brock, The Poodle Wall is a bit dirty...but will be "worthy" very soon. Glad yer gettin' after it. Sash
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Jul 29, 2015 - 06:35pm PT
New favorite thread!
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
  Sep 4, 2015 - 08:23pm PT
So Milt and co. went out to the Poodle Wall this week... The Unmitigated Augdacity was bolted and led. A sweet 5.11, 4 draws and a few pieces of gear 1" to 1 /1/2' and A bolted anchor will be installed in a week or so. For now a natural anchor is necessary (2) #3 c4's and (1) #4 c4 above the finishing ledge where a strange conglomerate projectile was deposited on the edge of the granite monolith. A long cordelette is necessary. Frank did a great job at snaking AK28's flash, F.A.. Sash
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Author's Reply  Sep 5, 2015 - 12:03am PT
^That's awesome. Didn't mean to make poodle wall sound unworthy. It was our lack of time, confidence, and ability that kept us from climbing there that day.
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
  Sep 5, 2015 - 08:45am PT
Dirt is dirt Gumby! Wasn't offended in the least. Two more routes to do there. Will keep you informed. SAsh
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Sep 5, 2015 - 09:03am PT
I missed this fun TR first time around. Glad it's back.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Sep 5, 2015 - 09:14am PT
Great TR! An area I know nothing about!
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
  Sep 5, 2015 - 10:20am PT
Thanks fun area and not used much.
L

climber
Livin' the Dream...just not sure where
  Sep 5, 2015 - 10:20am PT
Loved this TR--thanks for the great photos and witty descriptions!
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
  Sep 5, 2015 - 08:02pm PT
After a short stint at The Poodle Wall, Milt and co. went out to The Garden Wall at Shealor Lake. AK-28 attempted the first onsight of Power Player,(see earlier post) a modern Salazar master
piece. No go, great work though. Needs to be flashed for consensus on the grade. Sash
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Sep 6, 2015 - 01:24am PT
Wow ! ~NoCal ~ R00Lzz<B^D
( Whistle )schweet
looks awesome-fun
very fun write up
' love the dogs and dogs dogs swimming sharing the stick !
Then this looked sort of similar
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase
in a Minnie me sorta way
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase

all right no resemblance
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase

Grreetings from small rock hell. Below is the start of the crux of right trending crack
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase
'fear size' finger locks, to jams to a fist stack around the corner.

Thanks for this excellent TR It put a big smile on my face! This did it again, made me want new ankles !
I always want to go !








sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
  Sep 15, 2015 - 09:03pm PT
Looks fine to me Gnome... keep up the good work!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Sep 16, 2015 - 09:53am PT
Thanks for bumping this TR. I was away from civilization when this was posted last year, and it was buried by the time I got back. I hope these bumps allow more climbers to enjoy this excellent TR and trhead.

John
Dingus Milktoast

Trad climber
Minister of Moderation, Fatcrackistan
  Sep 16, 2015 - 10:29am PT
JElezarian, its a special place. It won't appeal to a lot of folk, but that's ok. Anyway, here's some shots from this past Monday afternoon. We've had some fires up here as you know. Last weekend was a smoke fest but a weather system came through, cleared out the smoke and dropped the temps.

It almost seemed like in one day, autumn had arrived. (Never mind that historically, September is our hottest month ;) I was antsy and needed to touch the grace of good granite. Here's what it was like:

Textures and hues


And some real nice boulders


The colors were popping! Well, after some post processing, anyway...


The rock polishing processes that must have gone on here offer endless fascination.


Oooo, and after some 25-years of playground activity? On Monday I found an unknown entrance to the Underworld! Scairt me away though, I had a bad feeling about that hole.


One of my favorites of the 'high and easy' list. Probably in the neighborhood of 40-50 feet to the top of the crack. She's wyde.... but not hard.


A pocket meadow. What a cool backyard that would be, eh?


Another cool, clunky crack system, easy but don't you dare fall from that rig.


Triangle beauty


Just little scenes, pleasing to the eye


Me about to tip a teetering giant off a small ledge.


These colors leave me with a sense of 'winter's coming' anxiety, however. Some autumn days, particularly when the sun gets short, can really pull me into a sense of brooding, that matches the grays of the coming season. That's when it gets harder for me to visit this place alone.


If you're ever up in the Sacramento or Tahoe hood, let me know, I'll give you a Milktoast Tour, John. Cheers,

DMT
hamersorethumb

Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
  Sep 16, 2015 - 10:51am PT
Thanks for those awesome photos DMT.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 16, 2015 - 11:28am PT
Dingus, don't try and sell those ratty Boreals on ebay. I'm onto you. LOL

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOREAL-Ballet-Gold-Climbing-Shoes-UK-10-US-11-Classic-/171935215448?
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